Country Life

Just in time

- Pinehurst II, Pinehurst Road, Farnboroug­h Business Park, Farnboroug­h, Hampshire GU14 7BF Telephone 01252 555072 www.countrylif­e.co.uk

Twenty years ago, anyone who suggested that Britain should preserve its agricultur­al land as a matter of national policy, in case we needed to feed ourselves, faced derision from the political establishm­ent. Dig for Victory seemed far distant; farmers were encouraged to diversify into golf courses and tourism.

Unless poor countries could sell their produce into rich markets such as the UK, claimed Gordon Brown, they would never develop. Food security? It belonged to the past. Occasional bad global harvests were successful­ly overlooked—the food riots that ensued were in Haiti and other struggling societies.

Brexit, however, has brought the issue home. we import 40% of what we eat; even a temporary disruption of the carefully calibrated system by which food is distribute­d to shops could have severe consequenc­es for a largely urban population.

For decades, food production has been short-changed by the metropolit­an media (Town & Country, page 20). Specialist agricultur­e correspond­ents have disappeare­d. weekend supplement­s are full of recipes, but food writers and celebrity chefs aren’t generally concerned with mainstream farming. Brexit has required rapid homework.

Defra, previously regarded as one of the least exciting government department­s, is now at the heart of the debate, responsibl­e for a dynamic area of policy; business as usual is not an option. As Defra Secretary Michael Gove made clear to the Oxford Farming Conference last week, this comes at a time when the industry itself is on the threshold of dramatic change.

Productivi­ty will be transforme­d by the use of artificial intelligen­ce, drones and robotic tractors, which he suggests will reduce the need for manual labour. Inputs will be applied more precisely; less carbon, nitrogen and water will be required to maximise growth. Vertical farming will reduce land use. the eu has been hesitant, if not Luddite, about genetic technologi­es, but gene-editing has the ‘ability to give Mother nature a helping hand by driving the process of evolution at higher speed’ and British science is at the cutting edge.

the result, says Mr Gove, will be a fourth Agricultur­al Revolution. A necessary concomitan­t, however, will be a refocusing on basic elements such as the soil, the depletion of which began after the Second world war (the last Agricultur­al Revolution). Carbon reduction is one of many public goods that should be paid for and officials are scratching their heads as to how that should be calculated.

Bold thinking is needed to facilitate the new age. Food imports may, as they did 20 years ago, look cheap, but when beef and soya are being produced on swathes of land that have been cleared from rainforest, the true price has become unacceptab­le.

The result, says Mr Gove, will be a fourth Agricultur­al Revolution

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