What to drink this week

Artadi

Is it a good idea to break away from established systems of wine classification and strike boldly out on your own? This happened in the 1980s, with the super-tuscans in Chianti, when ambitious producers chafed at rules outlawing Bordeauxstyle blends. On the whole, it doesn’t occur in France, where the top wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy sit quite happily at the apex of the appellation d’origine contrôlée system. Now, there are signs of it in Spain, first with Cava and now in Rioja.

This Spanish producer is breaking away from the pack and it’s worth following, says Harry Eyres

Why you should be drinking them

I can understand a top producer such as Raventós i Blanc wanting to break away from DO Cava, as the latter covers a vast swathe of Spanish sparkling wine, often of very ordinary quality. I’m less sure about the admired house of Artadi departing from the Rioja DOCA, but I am a great fan of Artadi’s wines.

What to buy

Raventós i Blanc Blanc de Blancs Brut 2015 (£19.50; www.wood winters.com) has attractive freshness with excellent depth and length. Soon after acquiring Artadi (originally a Rioja co-operative), Juan Carlos López de Lacalle branched out to make excellent wines in Alicante and Navarra as well as in Álava. From Navarra and made from Garnacha, Artazu Santa Cruz de Artazu 2007 (£128 per 6 IB; www.rdfinewine.com) has excellent sappy freshness. In its Rioja holdings (although no longer using the Rioja name), Artadi is increasingly focusing on single-plot wines and Artadi Valdeginés 2016 (right, £38.95 IB; www.bbr.com) has lifted aromas and lovely, floral finesse. Artadi Viña El Pisón 2002 (£118.60; www.hedonism.co.uk) comes from a plot that gives breadth and ripe structure and is now fully mature.