Tea for two

We Britons are famous for them, even if the vast majority are consumed by tourists. Claire Jackson samples the best afternoon teas in the land and argues that this most decadent of meals is a luxury worth preserving

Afternoon tea is a tradition worth indulging in. Claire Jackson tucks into finger sandwiches, strike-mepink sponge and, of course, tea

The first brew is critical, as the tea lies at the heart of the meal

THE waiter pours English sparkling wine from a great height, creating a bubbling cascade. The delicate coupe glass it’s served in forces the drinker to savour every mouthful of the limited-edition Sussex cuvée. The time to ponder is essential, as the tea menu threatens to overwhelm as Nepalese white blends and spicy Sri Lankan florals jostle for attention. The first brew is critical, as the drink lies at the heart of the meal.

Speedy fortification is the very antithesis of afternoon tea, which should be consumed over several hours. Although sensory pleasure is paramount, it’s not only about taste: the entire process is also a feast for the eyes and ears.

At Sketch, Mayfair’s Michelin-starred tearoom, diners take tea in the blush-pink gallery serenaded by a string quartet. Each of the waiting staff has a role in this play, such as the caviar man, who delivers Sturia to curious clients. Caviar with afternoon tea? Absolutely—the traditional sandwichesand-scones spread has matured into a sophisticated, wide-ranging pastime since it first appeared in the 19th century.

Anna Maria, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, is credited with the creation of afternoon tea. During the 1840s, it was customary for people to take two main meals a day: breakfast and dinner. The latter was often eaten after 9pm, particularly among the wealthy social classes if they were entertaining.

The Duchess began to offer mid-afternoon tea and sandwiches in her rooms at Woburn Abbey, continuing the practice when in London. It soon became a trend among socialites, with cakes and scones added over time.

‘The meal then moved from the lady’s private apartments to the drawing room,’ explains Julie Blay, head of hospitality at Fortnum & Mason. The Piccadilly department store provided the ingredients for the very first domestic afternoon teas, before setting up its own tearoom in 1926.

The appetite for afternoon tea continued to grow during the early 20th century. Hotels quickly saw the appeal; when The Dorchester opened in 1931, its Promenade became one of the key places for high society to take tea.

Although the tea leaves predicted good fortune for the tearooms and hotels, the practice of hosting afternoon tea at home fell into decline. This has done little to damage its reputation: just as we like to believe that everyone in the Mediterranean has an afternoon siesta, the commonly held belief is that the English stop everything at 3pm for tea and cake, something that’s bolstered the meal’s popularity with tourists.

In fact, we’re far more likely to enjoy the tradition as a once-in-a-while treat—often with a glass (or two) of fizz, a recent contemporary addition.

There are four key elements to an afternoon tea. The first is the tea itself. ‘Our tea master creates a delicate, flower-scented tea for each season of the year,’ says Stefan Trepp, the newly appointed executive chef at The Dorchester in Mayfair. ‘These complement the Promenade’s eye-catching floral arrangements.’

The best menus include a wide selection of teas, with the idea that diners begin with something light (a Sri Lankan classic black tea) before moving on to the stronger stuff (Chinese green tea or Taiwan Gaba is recommended at Sketch).

Then, the sandwiches. These are always finger sandwiches—no crusts, please—with at least one cucumber filling (‘absolutely compulsory,’ according to Mrs Blay). Mr Trepp suggests ‘baby cucumber and appleminted cream cheese on walnut bread and Maldon-cure smoked salmon with lemon balm, English wasabi and avocado mayonnaise on malted-grain bread’.

Coronation chicken features prominently at Fortnum & Mason, and quite appropriately: in 2012, The Queen visited the store with The Duchess of Cornwall and The

The scones should be treated as a separate course and always served warm

Duchess of Cambridge to formally open the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, where afternoon tea is now served.

After the savoury course come the cakes. These are generally presented on a tiered stand, which, of course, should match the rest of the tea service. The crockery is important: Sketch has specially designed tableware created by Turner Prize-nominee David Shrigley and London’s Langham uses Wedgwood. Variety is the spice of afternoon-tea petits

fours: ‘Variations of flavour and taste are what ultimately dictates our choices, which then impact on the colour and texture,’ explains Pierre Gagnaire, who has been awarded three Michelin stars and presides over a number of restaurants, including Sketch. How to eat these tiny works of art? ‘Fingers,’ states Mr Gagnaire, simply.

The scones should be treated as a separate course and always be served warm. A good afternoon tea includes both raisin and plain options, with plenty of jam (strawberry is a must, plus a contrasting flavour, such as gin and blueberry) and Cornish clotted cream. Debrett’s etiquette demands that jam is spread before cream, but don’t worry, there’s plenty of time to debate such controversies. A different tea is suggested at this point—perhaps peppermint to aid digestion—before the optional Victoria sandwich is served (see box).

‘I want a clean cup,’ says the Hatter in Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in

Wonderland. ‘Let’s all move one place on.’ At the most famous literary tea party of them all, the Hatter, March Hare and Dormouse move around the table seeking fresh china, as ‘it’s always tea-time, and we’ve no time to wash the things between whiles’.

We never find out what happens when they come to the beginning again, but this isn’t a tangible option for a proper afternoon tea, where the plates should be refreshed between courses. It wouldn’t do to mix bread and cake crumbs.

At this point, you might be wondering how you’ll ever fit in supper. Fear not: despite the

It’s so important to include a range of textures and flavours on an afternoon-tea menu, to ensure there is plenty of variety. My favourite part is the sandwiches, as they set the tone for the rest of the meal–first impressions are vital

name, many venues are serving afternoon tea from as early as 11am right up to 7pm. ‘It’s now a valid alternative to lunch or dinner,’ notes Mr Gagnaire. (Thank goodness! When writing this, I squeezed in two teas in one day—claiming efficiency over greed—in the manner of the Vicar of Dibley.)

Themed events are another popular form of the afternoon tea’s modernisation. Aqua Shard has created a delightful menu inspired by Mary Poppins—strictly P. L. Travers and not a Disney reference in sight. Diners are invited to ‘take their medicine’ and add a drop of ‘lime cordial’ or ‘rum punch’ to their Veuve Clicquot; the sandwiches and cakes are served on a tea stand bearing boots and a brolly.

There are exquisite references to the text, such as the ‘strike me pink’ sponge, created in homage to the nanny’s favourite phrase. As with Sketch, theatre and extravagance are critical to the experience; the Aqua Shard tea also includes candy floss served from a cart and the scones are delivered in Mary Poppins’s carpet bag. It’s a far cry from the Duchess’s pot of tea and simple sandwiches.

When Dickens wrote ‘if you could give me a cup of tea to clear my muddle of a head I should better understand your affairs’, he summed up the essence of an afternoon tea. Spectacle and sparkle aside, the tradition has stood the test of time because the chance to sit a while and take refreshment unrushed is a luxury worth preserving.