What to drink this week
Alsace Pinot Noir
Only the other day, a tasting was held in London with the title ‘Alsace Rocks’. I think this was a double entendre, referring both to Alsace’s great geological complexity and to its recent coming into vogue (at least, in the organisers’ minds). Although there may have been an element of wishful thinking—for decades, wine writers have enthused about the region, but its image has been more reliable than exciting—both meanings came out loud and clear. Alsace is beginning to enjoy its time in the sun. It produces wines of astonishing diversity and great quality. This week, I’m focusing on Alsace Pinot Noirs, which include some of the best-value expressions of that desirable, but elusive grape on the market.
Why you should be drinking them
Alsace seems to be, on the whole, a clear beneficiary of climate change. Warmer summers are bringing riper, fuller wines. This is a boon for Alsace Pinot Noirs, some of which used to be on the thin and weedy side.
What to buy
Cave de Turckheim Pinot Noir 2018 Bio (£12.59; www.dbyrne-finewines. co.uk) has exceptionally fresh, vibrant raspberry-ish fruit—it’s excellent for the price (and organic, to boot). Pinot Noir Domaine Paul Ginglinger 2017 (£12.95; www.thewinesociety. com) is bright, fresh and firm. Alsace Pinot Noir Steinbach Joseph Cattin 2017 (£20; www.thewinesociety. com) is warmer, smoother and richer, with a touch of oak. Even finer and more delicately precise is Domaine Kirrenbourg Alsace Pinot Noir 2015 Cuvée Mathieu (£224.25 per six IB; www. finewineservices.co.uk). If you’re throwing a party, I recommend Jean Cornelius Pinot Noir 2018 (right, £7.49; www.lidl.co.uk), which is fresh and vigorous, with appealing ripe fruit—and something of a steal, at that price.