Country Life

Best of the rest

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Waitrose & Partners No 1 All Butter Mince Pies, £2.50 for six (www.waitrose.com)

What Waitrose says Individual all-butter mince pies with a rich mincemeat filling containing apricot, glacé cherries, almonds and brandy.

The COUNTRY LIFE verdict Slightly pale and too neat to be passed off as homemade, but the pastry is sweet against the satisfying sharpness of the filling. One person thought the pastry slightly ‘claggy’, another proffered: ‘I wouldn’t be offended if I were offered one with a cup of tea.’ On the whole, not at all bad.

M&S Food Collection Six Mince Pies, £2.25 (www.marksandsp­encer.com)

What M&S says Crisp and golden all-butter shortcrust pastry, deep-filled with vine fruits, cranberrie­s, clementine and Cognac.

The COUNTRY LIFE verdict It was generally agreed that these are well-filled with a strongly flavoured mincemeat, but the pastry is too crumbly to be practical and the abundance of icing sugar makes them ‘a drinks-party nightmare’. To be consumed only in the privacy of your own home.

Fortnum & Mason Traditiona­l Mince Pies, £12.95 for six (www.fortnumand­mason.com)

What Fortnum & Mason says Spiced mincemeat encased in an all-butter, shortcrust pastry. The result is an indulgence no Christmas feast should be without.

The COUNTRY LIFE verdict Decadent in appearance and generously sized, the crumbly pastry was deemed a bit dry and too abundant in comparison with the quantity of mincemeat, which had an unusual flavour. ‘Is it vegetarian?’ queried one judge.

Riverford Organic Mince Pies, £5.25 for six (www.riverford.co.uk)

What Riverford says Baked to perfection in a wood-fired oven, each rich, buttery little pie is filled to the brim with apple, plump vine fruits, festive spices, candied peel, flaked almonds and a slosh of brandy. Just wonky enough to look homemade.

The COUNTRY LIFE verdict Beautifull­y packaged and oozing rustic charm, these unfortunat­ely didn’t leave much of an impression—the pastry seems to disintegra­te in the mouth and the filling tastes more of spices than fruit. Underwhelm­ing.

Tesco Finest Six All Butter Pastry Deep Filled Mince Pies with Courvoisie­r VS Cognac, £1.75 (www.tesco.com)

What Tesco says Luxurious mince pies packed with juicy fruits and seasonal spices, infused with Cognac, brandy and Port for a more intense flavour. Delicious warm or cold.

The COUNTRY LIFE verdict Thin pastry case topped with a pretty snowflake and containing an ‘inoffensiv­e’ fruity filling. ‘Pretty decent, but nothing to write home about,’ as one critic summarised.

Lidl Deluxe Luxury Mince Pies, £1.79 for six (www.lidl.co.uk)

What Lidl says Crumbly, all-butter shortcrust pastry cases, generously deep-filled with lightly spiced mincemeat laced with Cognac and finished with a sprinkling of sugar.

The COUNTRY LIFE verdict Attractive­ly decorated, if slightly anaemic-looking, some felt the pastry has a good crunch, whereas others found it tough. The mincemeat has a subtle tang, but not heaps of flavour. Quite obviously mass-produced.

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