Country Life

Wines of the week

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Lick of vanilla

Waitrose, Loved & Found Castelão, Lisboa, Portugal 2019. £6.99, Waitrose, alc 13.5% The Loved & Found wines are all priced at below £10 and showcase lesser-known grapes. Castelão produces easy-drinking wines with soft, ripe tannins and flavours of red and black plum and brambly blackberry, with a lick of vanilla from time in French and American oak.

Pear, apple and peach

Fattoria San Francesco, Cirò Bianco, Calabria, Italy 2020. £13.50, Jeroboams, alc 12.5% A brilliantl­y versatile white from the toe of Italy, made with 100% Greco Bianco, this is fresh with lifted aromas of pear, apple and peach. There is a lovely creaminess on the palate, soft and velvety smooth with a mouthwater­ing juiciness balanced by excellent acidity. A brilliant option for aperitifs or with light meals —and lighter than many in terms of alcohol. Easy to recommend.

Juicy and ripe

Sainsbury’s, Discovery Collection Côtes de Beaunevill­ages, Burgundy, France 2019. £18, Sainsbury’s, alc 14.5% From 20- to 60-year-old Pinot Noir vines. Perfumed berry aromas, with a hint of sweet cedar. Juicy and ripe; good depth of fruit—cherries and fruits of the forest—balanced by fresh acidity, with well-judged oak and smooth tannins.

Buttery palate

Simpsons, The Roman Road Chardonnay, Kent, England 2020. £26, Simpsons Wine Estate, alc 12%

An expressive nose of vanilla and honeydew melon dusted with crushed stone and elderflowe­r pollen. Buttery on the palate, the salinity and high acids provide a lively thrust to the ripe yellow fruits. Lime zest and discreet wood follow to a clean finish.

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