Wines of the week
Lean and herbaceous
Villiera, Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2021. £8, M&S, alc 13%
A portion of fruit for this crisp Sauvignon is from Villiera’s 37year-old heritage vineyard and the style is more lean and herbaceous, thanks to early-picked grapes. Packed with gooseberry, nettle and ripe citrus, it’s great value. In store and online.
Oily on the palate
Adnams, Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy 2019. £13.99, Adnams, alc 12.5%
From fossil-rich soils in the hilly Roero region, the Arneis grape gives this a welcoming nose of ripe peach, apricot and white blossom. Rich and oily on the palate, it starts with citrus and green apple, leading to melon and apricot, refreshed by lime peel and mineral acidity. There’s a long finish of acacia honey and stone fruit—a delight.
Cigar box and clove
Domaine de l’agly, Les Cimes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France 2017. £17, Co-op, alc 14.5% Smoky plum, blueberry and cherry liqueur on the nose. This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan is rich in blueberries and inky minerals, spiced up by wood tannins, cigar box and clove. A long finish of prunes and herbal spice.
Sappy mouthfeel
Luke Lambert, Syrah, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia 2019. £33.95–£37.50, Hedonism, Philgas & Swiggot, The Sourcing Table, Vinified Wine, alc 13.5% What a deliciously sexy wine! Enticing and complex, it shows great intensity of fruit—red plum, with rosehip and pomegranate. The supple, sappy mouthfeel is balanced by sinewy tannins, acidity and gently sweet spicing. From organic vines, it is 80% whole-bunch fermented and aged in neutral foudres for six months.