COUNTRY LIFE’S top half dozen

The Grange Classic Dry English Sparkling

The sparkling wine produced by the Baring family from a lovely south/south-westfacing Hampshire vineyard with ‘its toes in the Itchen,’ as Zam Baring likes to put it, was something of a surprise winner, although it’s been a connoisseur’s choice for some years. Comments from our tasting panel included ‘complex’, ‘garden-party fresh’ and—my favourite—‘evokes long, hot summer evenings in an English garden’. I liked its unaggressive acidity.

£36; www.thegrangewine.co.uk

Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve Sparkling

Again from Hampshire, and again made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier with a touch of Pinot Précoce, this was one of a clutch of excellent sparklers that, to all intents and purposes, shared the number-two spot. Panellists found it ‘zingy’, ‘citrussy’, ‘biscuity’ and one or two found the acidity quite high. I loved the complex ripeness, backed by fresh acidity.

£36; www.hattingleyvalley.com

Gusbourne Estate Brut Reserve 2020

From one of England’s top producers, based near Ashford in Kent, this had, for me, satisfying ripeness and complexity, combined with apple and citrus freshness. Several other tasters compared it to Champagne and two or three detected oak—remarkably perceptive, as a small proportion of the blend is fermented in old oak casks.

£45; www.gusbourne.com

Wiston Estate Brut NV

This West Sussex vineyard, planted to the three Champagne varieties in roughly equal quantities, has long been one of the leaders of the English-sparkling pack. Unusually, this Brut contains 30% of reserve wines going back to 2007 and I enjoyed its golden colour and yeasty, autolytic style with notes of brioche. Other panellists found a ‘bready nose’ and ‘appley sherbet flavour’.

£34; www.wistonestate.com

Breaky Bottom 2010 Cuvée Reynolds Stone

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the planting of the first vines at Breaky Bottom, the hidden vineyard in a secluded fold of the Sussex Downs, by the indefatigable Peter Hall. He is still going strong and this cuvée of the three Champagne varieties, named after his friend the engraver Reynolds Stone, showed for me a beautifully buttery, toasty nose and exhilarating freshness. Others also noted ‘butteriness’ and ‘complexity’. One said simply ‘glorious’.

£75; www.breakybottom.co.uk

Rathfinny Classic Cuvée Brut

Rathfinny is perhaps England’s most dramatic estate—a huge expanse of vines marching over the South Downs close to the English Channel at Cuckmere Haven. No expense has been spared here and, after early teething troubles with high winds, the wines are now excellent. One panellist declared ‘you can almost taste the sea salt on this’. Others, myself included, found it ‘fresh’, ‘clean’ and ‘summery’.

£35; www.rathfinnyestate.com

It evokes long, hot summer evenings in an English garden