Country Living (UK)

LOVE OF THE LAND

Roger Phillips

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“It’s vital to have an emotional and philosophi­cal connection with your natural

surroundin­gs”

The writer, artist and legendary forager talks about adventures in search of wild flowers and man’s fascinatio­n with our origins

When I learnt you could eat things gathered from the

wild, it changed my life. I was living on my grandparen­ts’ farm in Hertfordsh­ire at the time, having been evacuated there in the War with my brother. We went to a tiny school, there were babies in the crèche and my job was to feed them a pulp made of nettle tops.

During the War, people would hunt and forage because

food was rationed. My father was a pretty good shot and when he visited at weekends we’d go out hunting rabbits, pigeons and pheasants. There was no pre-packaged, preprepare­d food like there is now, and no needless waste either.

I was adamant my son Sam wouldn’t grow up to be a ‘townie’, more concerned by whether his shoes were

clean than anything else. So, when he was five or six and we were living in London, I thought: ‘Right, I’m going to take him out into the countrysid­e and show him a thing or two.’ For the next eight years we’d venture out, rain or shine, snow or frost, to learn about wild plants and how to cook lunch on a campfire. Word soon spread and, before long, Sam’s friends and their parents would come along, too – there would be a little mob of us.

Working with children provided the inspiratio­n for

my book. It was during one of those trips that I had the idea to write Wild Flowers of Britain. I found, beyond the 100 or so flowers my grandmothe­r had shown me, there were a great deal I didn’t recognise. I spent a year tearing around the UK gathering samples, which I’d transport in clinking milk bottles back to London to be photograph­ed.

It’s vital to have an emotional and philosophi­cal

connection with your natural surroundin­gs. Nowadays, children are glued to their mobile phones, more likely to know about Pokémon than British plants and flowers. But when I did a tour at The Good Life Experience festival in Wales last year, the kids loved it – they were racing around finding mushrooms before any adults could get their hands on them.

Nearly everything you grow is edible – from dahlias and lilacs to roses and cosmos. My latest Instagram post is of my granddaugh­ter showcasing a floral salad on a plate.

We are fascinated by the origin of things and all have a nagging feeling that one day we’d love to revert back to a natural way of living. That’s why there’s been a resurgence in foraging, which I hope I’m a little bit responsibl­e for… People like to think they’d know what to do if disaster struck and they had to go and live in a tree and collect their own food.

Roger’s next book, Wild Cooking, will be published by Unbound, a crowdfundi­ng publisher. To donate, visit unbound.com/books/wild-cooking.

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