An ingredient to enjoy VENISON

Designer, cook and author Sophie Conran shares her favourite seasonal flavour

IN A WORLD THAT SEEMS TO HAVE GONE VEGAN, I’D LIKE TO ALERT YOU TO THE MANY MERITS OF VENISON. IT’S TOTALLY WILD AND ABUNDANT, AND COMES FROM ONE OF THE SIX VARIETIES OF DEER THAT ROAM THROUGHOUT THE UK, SO IT IS ONE OF THE MOST SUSTAINABLE MEATS OF ALL. IT JUST SO HAPPENS TO BE INCREDIBLY LEAN, HIGH IN PROTEIN AND VERY LOW IN CALORIES AND CHOLESTEROL, TOO. MOST OF THE CUTS REQUIRE LONG, SLOW COOKING, SO MAKE FABULOUS STEWS, PIES AND BRAISES. ADD EXTRA FAT SUCH AS DICED PANCETTA, OR RED WINE, MUSHROOMS, CHESTNUTS, JUNIPER BERRIES AND ROOT VEGETABLES FOR FLAVOUR. BUT THE FILLET (SOMETIMES CALLED BACK-STRAP OR LOIN) NEEDS VERY LITTLE COOKING AND MAKES A SENSATIONAL WELLINGTON FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS. See sophieconran.com. Turn to page 44 for our feature on venison charcuterie.