MAGNOLIAS IN THE SPOTLIGHT
With their spectacular blooms, magnolias steal the scene every spring and now there’s a showstopping variety for every garden
These magnificent shrubs steal the scene every spring
Amagnolia in full bloom is one of the glories of spring, whether it is a mature tree festooned with large cup-shaped flowers or a compact shrub smothered in starry blossom. The profusion of flowers all but hides the leafless branches, in colours that range from purest white through creams and yellows to every shade of pink, rich reds and purples. There is nothing subtle about this performance. At a time when the rest of the garden is stirring into life with emerging spring flowers, bulbs and perennials, the magnolia is putting on a stunning display that guarantees it centre stage.
Magnolias are among our most ancient plants, with fossil records dating back a hundred million years. Because they predate the arrival of bees and other flying insects, they are pollinated by beetles and are generally untroubled by pests – although they were once grazed by dinosaurs. Nevertheless, over the millennia they have evolved into more than 200 species that are found growing in their natural habitat on woodland edges throughout south-east Asia and the Americas.
The majority of spring-flowering magnolias are deciduous. Many of us are familiar with the two that are most frequently planted – the spreading soulangeanas and the bushy stellatas. According to magnolia expert Jim Gardiner, former curator of RHS Wisley and author of Magnolias – A Gardener’s Guide (Timber Press), M. x soulangeana has been the ‘magnolia of choice’ for a long time because it is
readily available in garden centres, comes in many different flower colours, grows well in most urban environments and is tolerant of a wide range of soil types. However, it is also the magnolia that is most frequently hacked into ungainly shapes when it has outgrown its space! This is probably why M. stellata has proved so popular – altogether more petite, this delicate Japanese magnolia is perfect for smaller gardens and can also be grown in containers.
CHOOSING A CULTIVAR
There is a world of magnolias to explore beyond these two and many of the modern cultivars are especially exciting. Breeding has produced an ever-expanding range, with particular focus on compact trees that flower earlier in their life, have beautiful flower shapes and colour, and strong scent. ‘Pinkie’ is medium-sized with a spreading habit and rosy pink flowers, while ‘Margaret Helen’ is a large upright shrub with deep rose-pink flowers, and M. x loebneri ‘Leonard Messel’ is large and multi-stemmed with shaggy pink starshaped flowers that open from dark pink buds. Slower-growing upright trees are also suitable as specimen trees in small and medium-sized gardens. Jim recommends yellow ‘Daphne’ and ‘Yellow Lantern’, white M. salicifolia ‘Wada’s Memory’, white-streaked purple M. cylindrica ‘Bjuv’, and pinks ‘Columnar Pink’, ‘Aurora’ and M. x brooklynensis ‘Daybreak’. ‘Yellow Bird’ is another celebrated yellow. All of these are deciduous, but there are now a number of spring-flowering evergreens (in really cold winters they may shed their leaves), including the Fairy range, that are perfect for pot cultivation.
Don’t rush choosing your magnolia – these trees can live for a hundred years, so you want to be sure it is the right size, habit and colour. Visit gardens with established magnolia groves to get a realistic idea of their mature size and buy from specialist growers for the best quality and widest choice. If you live in a cold part of the country, reduce the risk of frost damage to the flowers by selecting a later-flowering variety – these include Magnolia liliiflora ‘Nigra’, as well as M. sieboldii, sinensis and wilsonii, all of which are scented and prefer to grow in partial shade.
Most other magnolias will flower prolifically when in a sunny position. Wherever you live, though, be prepared for late frosts that can turn flowers brown overnight
– it is disappointing when it happens, but this is a horticultural gamble worth taking. Magnolias are shallow rooted and will grow well in small beds and close to houses where their roots will not damage foundations, but avoid planting them where the ground is regularly cultivated, as their fleshy roots dislike disturbance.
PLANTING AND TENDING
Autumn planting – while soil temperatures are high
– is recommended, but magnolias can also be planted throughout the spring, provided they have had time to harden off after being overwintered under glass. Check that the roots are well-established but not overcrowded and be wary of buying magnolias that have stood out in their containers through a hard winter – the temperature fluctuations can cause them to completely collapse.
A slightly acidic, rich, fertile, moisture-retentive soil is ideal, but a deep, well-cultivated neutral or slightly alkaline soil can also grow magnolias successfully. Incorporate well-rotted compost to add body to light soil and help break up heavy clay soils. Grit should also be added to heavy soils. When planting, dig a generously wide pit and be careful not to go too deep (just marginally above the level of the soil in the pot), plus take great care not to damage the roots.
When growing magnolias in containers, plant into a loam-based compost such as John Innes No.3, water regularly and liquid feed through the growing season. According to Jim, newly planted magnolias will quite often ‘sit’ for the first growing season, then grow away during the second or third year, depending on how favourable the location is. Most cultivars will flower within the first three to five years, although a tree may take between seven and ten years.
It may surprise you to learn that magnolias are easily pruned, contrary to the evidence of the misshapen specimens in many front gardens. Formative pruning of all magnolias, both large and small, should be done in early September, along with an application of a goodquality organic mulch. Over-large mature specimens can be given a severe crown reduction immediately after flowering in the spring, although Jim suggests that this is carried out gradually over a three-year period. So really, no matter how large or small your garden, there will be space in it for this spectacular curtain-raiser for spring.