TOMATO SALAD, MAMAN BLANC

My memory takes me back to my childhood job as my father’s helper in his garden, assisting with the planting of tomatoes, and then nurturing them before the moment when they were plump and ready to be picked – although often they were picked when under-ripe before they could fall to the ground and bruise. Then they were left to ripen on a kitchen windowsill, finished by the warmth of sunbeams. This salad (opposite) celebrates our finest heritage varieties – quite simply, the better the tomato, the better the salad.

Preparation 10 minutes, plus marinating Serves 4

1.2KG HEIRLOOM TOMATOES (TIGER-STRIPED, PLUM, BLACK RUSSIAN ETC)

½ RED ONION

1 GARLIC CLOVE

2 PINCHES OF SEA SALT FLAKES

6 TURNS OF GROUND BLACK PEPPER

2 TBSP WHITE WINE VINEGAR

4 TBSP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

2 BALLS OF MOZZARELLA CHEESE

4 BASIL SPRIGS

1 Slice all the tomatoes into bite-sized wedges and put them in a large bowl. Finely slice the onion and add to the same bowl. Crush the peeled garlic clove with the back of a knife, finely slice it and then add it to the bowl.

2 Season the salad with the salt and pepper and add the white wine vinegar and olive oil. Toss the salad and leave it for at least 5 minutes to marinate – enough time for an exchange of flavours.

3 Arrange the tomato salad on a large serving dish. Cut the mozzarella balls into quarters and place them around the salad with the basil sprigs. Serve.