6 questions

…with Staithe Smokehouse

Phil Hartshorne runs a traditional artisan fish smokehouse in Brancaster Staithe on the North Norfolk coast

What’s the appeal of smoked food?

Done well, it should have a lovely undertone of smoke, which helps to bring out the natural flavours. At one time, smokehouses were dotted up and down the county’s coastal villages. Great Yarmouth was famous for its smoked herring, known as bloaters – the town still has three herrings on its coat of arms.

What’s your ultimate smoked speciality? Smoked salmon. It’s amazing how salting this beautiful fish, and then smoking it gently over oak sawdust, delivers this delicious piece of heaven that can be used in so many ways.

Any unusual smoked foods you can recommend? Smoked scallops cooked gently for a couple of minutes on each side and then finished off with some unsalted butter. Out of this world.

What’s tricky to smoke? Salmon can be fussy – too hot and it turns to mush, too cold and it doesn’t smoke well. It’s got to be pampered. We tend to smoke prawns and crevettes late at night when it’s cooler, as they don’t take long to do.

Which is your favourite sawdust? It has to be oak. That’s the perfect wood for fish or cheese. Woodchip from alder works well for eggs and apple for pork.

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Any top tips for beginners? Cheese is the best food to experiment with. You’ll soon learn temperature control – if your smoker is too hot, the cheese will melt. Also put it in the fridge for at least 12 hours after smoking to allow the flavour to set.