7questions

…with a mushroom expert

Director of Wild Food UK Marlow Renton runs courses on gathering and cooking foraged ingredients

1 How did you become a professional forager?

I used to work for a web development company in London, but about ten years ago I started foraging as an escape. Someone paid me to lead a foraging group and I realised I could make a living from it.

2 Your top mushroom dish?

My favourite simple dish is wild mushroom soup, using any type (although I love a chanterelle). Just cook the mushrooms in butter, add mushroom stock, half a teaspoon of Marmite (my secret ingredient) and a touch of cream, then blend. So easy.

3 Can you taste the difference?

Varieties do have different flavours. Dried porcini packs a big punch, chanterelles have a lovely sweetness, while St George’s mushrooms are musky. You can never beat a mushroom you’ve grown yourself.

4 What’s the best meat substitute?

Oyster mushrooms add a meaty texture to stir-fries. Chicken of the woods mushrooms make excellent satays and are great in stews. 5 Most challenging to cook with? Porcelain fungus need washing as they are slimy when fresh, but they are delicious once they’ve been cooked.

6 Some say you shouldn’t wash a mushroom…

Washing a mushroom dilutes the flavour and adds moisture to your cooking. This is fine if you’re making soup, but not if you’re frying them. A mushroom brush is a good solution.

7 Best dish for mushroom-shunners?

I’d recommend mushroom and cashew nut paté – you completely change the texture.

FIND OUT MORE at wildfooduk.com.*