‘La Transardennaise’

Through hills, valleys and Belgium’s ‘book village’

CREATED IN 1980, the Transardennaise covers 155km (97 miles) between the popular tourist centres of La Roche-en-Ardenne and Bouillon, near the French border. Well signposted throughout, the trail mainly follows farm and forest tracks, passing through woodlands, rolling hills and the picturesque valleys of four rivers: the Ourthe, Lomme, Lesse and Semois.

The central Ardennes, largely consisting of windy moorland and forest plateau, offers genuinely wild walking, with a succession of deep valleys separated by hills often densely forested with beech and oak. Because the valleys run in different directions, there are variations in the local climate, flora and fauna. There are a series of attractive historic villages en route, including Sainte-Ode, Saint-Hubert, Nassogne, Awenne and Daverdisse.

Walkers also get to visit the ‘ book village’ of Redu, Wallonia’s answer to Hay-on Wye with about 20 bookshops scattered among the old stables and farm buildings. The trail passes a succession of ruined castles, imposing châteaux, basilicas and churches. To sustain the hungry traveller, this part of Wallonia is notable for its food and drink, such as Ardenne ham, Borquin sausage, trout from the River Lesse and spiced beer ( known as la Cuvée de la Jonquille).

Typically, the trek takes a week and is divided into seven sections designed for a demanding but manageable walking days. There are many ascents to contend with; indeed, on some days there’s little or no walking on the flat at all.

SECTION 1:

From La Roche-en-Ardenne you immediately get a taste of things to come – a steep forested climb out of the valley. Then comes an idyllic stretch of open country before the trail crosses the valley of the western Ourthe in Sprimont (Sainte-Ode) at the entrance of la Grande Forêt de Saint-Hubert.

SECTION 2:

Almost entirely through forest, with demanding ascents and descents. This stretch finishes at Saint-Hubert, notable for the finest basilica in the region and the Museum of Walloon Life.

SECTION 3:

A day that features multiple ascents and follows the valleys of three rivers to reach Nassogne – a village with an impressive collegiate church and piazza, along with a history dating back to Roman times.

SECTION 4:

An easier stretch through open country with a series of superb views. On this day you’re likely to encounter herds of characteristic Ardennes horses.

SECTION 5:

Mostly on level ground as the trail follows rather than crosses the valleys. The first of these, Marsau Valley, is one of the most beautiful. After a stretch of forest, the trail comes to the ‘ book village’ of Redu, before you walk past the Euro Space Center at Transinne to finish at Daverdisse.

SECTION 6:

Woodland is replaced by meadows in this leg, with shallower valleys and more villages as the trail follows the lovely Our Valley, containing the pretty namesake village and finishing at Paliseul.

SECTION 7:

The final stretch features a mix of woodland and open country on the way to the former ducal capital of Bouillon, built on the River Semois and notable for its medieval castle.