ABBEY TO ABBEY, BREW TO BREW
The Trappist Abbeys Grand Randonnée (GR).
Journey through a region famous for its Trappist ales.
THE TRAPPIST ABBEYS Grand Randannée (GR) is the first ‘themed’ long distance trail in Wallonia: a hike of 290 kilometres linking three abbeys famous for their Trappist ales. This is a daunting pilgrimage by any standards, and even the most experienced walker would be hard-pressed to complete the journey in one trip. So, the Association of GR Hiking Trails has divided the lengthy trail into two sections, with Rochefort Abbey wrapping up the first leg and launching the second. It’s perfectly fitting that this remarkable route, celebrating and combining both the monastic life and the ‘good life’, should be situated in Wallonia – a traditionally religious region but a beer-loving one too, where three of the world’s 12 authentic Trappist beers have been brewed for centuries.
SECTION 1: Scourmont Abbey to Rochefort Abbey (174 kilometres/108 miles)
The GR starts at Scourmont Abbey located on a windswept plateau about 10km south of Chimay. The Cistercians founded their monastery in 1850, and the abbey gardens, farm, brewery and cheese factory became the hub of the community. The Trappist ale, which earns its label by being made ‘in a spirit of social solidarity and charity’, is no longer brewed on the site. The modern brewery is some distance away, but you can try the abbey’s ales and cheeses at ‘L’Auberge de Poteaupré’, a restaurant/ brasserie about 500 metres from the main building. The Auberge is reminiscent of an old pub with its warm and lively atmosphere but where Trappist beers and local cheeses are honoured.
The magnificent gardens are open to the public and worth a visit, as is the ‘Chimay Experience’ next door, where you can learn how the monks still use centuries-old techniques to produce their organic beer and cheese.
The trail itself begins in classic Ardennes country; woods, thick forests, steep climbs, sudden descents and dramatic high cliffs above rivers and streams. Being an official GR path, the signage is consistent, with white-and-red or yellow-and-red marking lines on rocks, trees, poles or walls.
Early highlights of the walk are passing through Chimay, the viewpoint over Frasnes and a short but rewarding foray over the border to the pretty French village of Hierges. Back in Belgium, after tackling the wild Hermeton valley, you reach the winding rivers Meuse and Lesse. This is just a snapshot though, there’s not enough room here to describe the walk in detail, but you can get more information by referring to the online guide at www.grsentiers.org or by contacting our London office.
Near the end of the first section of the GR, you arrive at the world-famous limestone caves of Hansur-Lesse – but we have walking to do, so save the caves for a future trip and press on to journey’s end: Rochefort Abbey. The monastery is nearly 800 years old, and although it’s not open to the public the Cistercian monks are visible in the community, selling their produce and using the profits to help the disadvantaged. Production of their ales is strictly limited to ensure thequality stays at a high standard, and after walking for four or five days you’ll be keen to find out whether it deserves its reputation!
“A hike of 290 kilometres linking three abbeys famous for their Trappist ales.”