6 things that make canal walks amazing
With more than 2000 miles of waterways, Britain’s canal system also has as many miles of towpaths, making for traffic-free, wildlife-filled, slow-paced walking. And as Jasper Winn explains, they offer proof in abundance that canals aren’t just second-rate rivers… A BRIDGE MADE WITH BLOOD
Possibly the best bit of canal artistry in the country. The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in Clwyd carries the Llangollen Canal along a channel held up by 18 delicate arches 125 feet above the River Dee. Dubbed ‘the stream in the sky,’ you can walk the towpath for incomparable views down the valley, perhaps not dwelling too much on its construction; its joints were sealed by Welsh flannel, lead, sugar and ox blood.
WALKING LIKE A HORSE
The Standedge Tunnel runs for three miles beneath the Pennines between Marsden and Diggle and is Britain’s longest and highest canal tunnel. But it was built with no towpath, so while the boats went through the tunnel, the towing horses were led over the hilltop by a ‘traffic regulator’ who made the two-way trip twice a day for 37 years. You can follow their path over the hill – just once if you like – because it’s fab.
A GHOST IN A TUNNEL
At a mile and three quarters, Netherton Tunnel at Bumble Hole on the Birmingham Canal Navigations is the longest English tunnel to have a towpath beside its waters. It makes for an eerie subterranean walk. In the days of working boats it was lit by gas and then electricity, but now you’ll need a torch. It’s said to be stalked by an ethereal white lady, who leaves wet footprints that appear in front of you.
WALKING UPSIDE DOWN
How did boats get through Standedge Tunnel without their horses? By legging: getting someone to lie atop or aside the boat and push it along using the tunnel’s ceiling or walls. If you like the idea, you can try it at the Dudley Canal Tunnel in the West Midlands. Join the Dudley Canal Trust for a trip into their miles of underground tunnels, quarries and chambers, and they’ll turn off the engine and offer you a go. Weirdly fun.
GETTING PAID TO HOBBLE
Tardebigge Locks, on the Worcester and Birmingham Canal, are the longest flight of locks in Britain: 30 of them, rising 220 feet over 2 miles. In the days of commercial narrowboats, men would hire themselves out as ‘hobblers’, helping crews to work their boats through the locks. There are still plenty of leisure boats going up and down the flight if you feel like helping. About three old pence should be a fair price.
WALKING COAST TO COAST BY WATER
The Leeds and Liverpool Canal is Britain’s longest canal built as a single waterway, running 127 miles from the Mersey to Leeds, where it joins the Aire and Calder Navigation to head for the Humber. Thus, walking it is not only a fantastically scenic crossing of the Pennines, but it’s also as good as a coast to coast walk. Not got the time? Then walk Britain’s shortest canal: the Wardle Canal in Cheshire is just 154 feet long.