Country Walking Magazine (UK)

4. Gugh, Isles of Scilly, Cornwall

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From the pier on the isle of St Agnes, pass the tempting Turk’s Head – Britain’s most south-westerly pub – and head along a narrow lane and sandy track. If the tide is out, a bar of sand joining St Agnes to Gugh will swing into view. This link between the two islands is a tombolo, a natural phenomenon that is rather rare in Britain.

Your first encounter on Gugh is with the 90-acre island’s two houses, built a hundred years ago with extraordin­ary curving roofs to withstand the Atlantic gales. An anticlockw­ise ramble from here will take you back centuries and then millennia. At Gugh’s southern end, the Carn of Works Civil War battery is guarded nowadays by lesser blackbacke­d gulls rather than Cavaliers. Turn north and you’ll meet the Old Man of Gugh, a 9-foot high Bronze Age leaning menhir (standing stone). Then climb Kittern Hill with its entrance graves and the remains of round houses and kelp pits. From the summit, a wondrous panorama awaits you: several Scillonian islands, the Western Rocks – scene of many a tragic shipwreck – and the slender finger of Bishop Rock lighthouse.

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