Mystical moors and epic views
Discover medieval magnificence around Malmedy and Reinhardstein.
EPIC LANDSCAPES, WILD mystical moors, medieval magnificence and military memorial define this route. Medieval magnificence in the form of castles and fortresses that set the dramatic backdrop for tales of feuding families, making modern day soap operas look like a fairytale. Think Prince Charming on steroids and you get the picture. Oh – did anybody mention climbing over Napoleon’s nose after a spot of skiing (yes you heard), or how about wild swimming or F1 championship racing?
A little about the region: The ‘Hautes Fagnes’ (High Fens) is an otherworldly place. Its wild moors and forests sit on the borders of Germany, radiating pastel mists and soft light, creating an ethereal and calming beauty, which captivate walkers in all seasons. This protected nature reserve is also the highest point of Wallonia – up to 672m above sea level. Ok – we know it’s not super high but its misty, poetic qualities more than compensate.
All along these magnificent routes, the dark forest of Hertogenwaldin in the ‘L’Ourthe valley’ cloak and caress you with dark firs, revealing medieval magnificence and amazing cultural experiences and adventures. People often hail the wellbeing benefits of hugging trees. On this Eastern Canton route, however, it’s the trees that hug you.
Medieval magic
So much to detail but let’s mention the halfway point of this car route – Reinhardstein. It sits beautifully in the deep gorge of the Warche Valley in the little village of Ovifat. Reinhardstein castle has been through the mill since it was first built in 1354. Sitting on a rocky outcrop as if between heaven and earth. It now stands today in a perfectly restored state thanks to the Willy Wonker-esque ‘Professor Overloop’. He saved its patrimony in the 1970s by using old 14th century documents to successfully reconstruct towers and parapet walks with stunning results.
If you want to make an outing of its fully restored grandeur you could spend a day there immersing yourself into the life of a medieval lord or a lady. A guided tour allows you to admire the castle’s fabulous tapestry and weaponry collection. Try your hand at a spot of medieval archery or treat yourself to the castle’s very own Reinhardstein amber beer or soft cheese. Your feast awaits.
Lest we forget – wartime memories
Another historical stop off further along the route is Malmedy. It’s not just that it’s charismatic with exceptional heritage and epic views, it’s also an important place in terms of World War II history. A place to learn about the ill-fated Malmedy massacre in the war.
The Baugnez 44 Historical Centre is a fascinating little museum dedicated to the Battle of the Bulge. It tells the poignant tale of a convoy of German Panzer tanks commanded by Joachim Peiper who ploughed through the freezing Ardennes in an ill-fated offensive against the allied troops.
“Castles and fortresses set the dramatic backdrop for tales of feuding families.”
Folklore and festivals
Steeped in war history Wallonia may be, but it isn’t all doom and gloom. Just like many towns in the region, Wallonia wholeheartedly enjoys celebrating quirky festivities. Malmedy’s very own is referred to as the ‘Cwarmê d'Mâm’dî’ where everyone speaks Walloon for the occasion – usually around February/March. ‘Haguètes’ (masked figures in red robes and striking plumed hats) wander through the town, grabbing onlookers with their ‘hape-tchâr’ (a type of wooden tongs) until they kneel and ask for forgiveness. All in good spirits, of course.
Poetry and motion – three museums, one unexpected venue
If you are looking to pack a holistic Wallonia experience into your trip with the best the region has to offer, then Stavelot is the place. Beautiful timbered buildings and quaint narrow streets, and the jewel in the crown – Stavelot Abbey – will thrill thrice over. Contrary to the image of a peaceful haven of monastic silence, this abbey is filled with sound and motion. It houses not one but three museums, including the exhilarating Spa Francorchamps Track Museum, dedicated to the most beautiful racetrack in the world. For over 14 centuries, the abbey has always been a lively place: monks in the 8th century, revolutionaries, master tanners, municipal administration, museums... The place hasn’t stopped buzzing since.