My kingdom for a castle
Living like a Belgian lord: feuds, fallouts and fairytales.
ROMANTIC, MAJESTIC, WARRIORLIKE, ancient... these routes in the Lesse Valley bare all about castles and kings, lords and ladies, family feuds and fallouts. Each has its own dramatic tale to tell of love, passion, murder and mystery. Think Cinderella takes part in WWF wrestling or I’m a knight in the Ardennes forest… get me out of here. Each has its own distinctive character and beauty and there are definitely a few phantoms in the mix too. What they all have in common are dramatic river settings and wild verdant nature – perfect for weaving in some water activities such as kayaking and river cruising.
Château Lavaux Saint Anne – it’s a lord’s life
The starting point of the car route is Château Lavaux Saint Anne: the castle with more to it than meets the eye. It has been a fortress since 1244 with beautiful bell-shaped roofs, renaissance gates, stone turrets and a compact little moat. Not only is it picture-perfect but it’s also home to three museums where you can realise the life of a lord or lady with music and costume and learn all about rural life over the centuries. A true jewel in the Famenne region, it is run by a welcoming team of people including ‘Cecile’ the fairy who keeps the castle in its impeccable state. The deer park and a wetland zone filled with rare flora and fauna are a must for nature lovers and a nice picnic stop.
Château de Vêves – perfectly proportioned
Proud of its perfect proportions and halfway along the route is the fortified Château de Vêves. It was first founded by Pépin de Herstal in the 7th century and is considered one of the best examples of 14th century architecture in Belgium. When you walk inside the symmetrical towers and on its parapet walk, you can almost hear the clinking armour of the watch soldiers. The same family LiedekerkeBeaufort line has watched over Vêves for over eight centuries, a longevity which is rare in history and adds to its magic. Extensively restored in 1969, the medieval era is etched everywhere you turn. Its five pentagonal shaped pepper pot towers are straight out of a Rapunzel fairytale. The distinctive 1418 timbered galleries, sumptuous hall of arms, rare china, paintings, furniture and large kitchen are all a sentinel of the Middle Ages. Château de Vêves is without a doubt an important part of the major heritage of Wallonia.
Dinant Citadel, beermaking and all that jazz
Dinant is a proper picture postcard town often called ‘the Daughter of the Meuse’, its silvery flow hugging and framing the rocks and city, ribboning pretty houses and shops. Lift your gaze towards the towering Citadel and the onion domed roof of the Collegiate Church. The Medieval Citadel has its very own cable car to zip up to see the epic view over the city. It also has a famous son, the father of the saxophone – Adolph Sax. Dinant in summer is a fabulously authentic way to enjoy regular jazz weekends that brings us naturally to beer. Wallonia wouldn’t be complete without some kind of beer experience and the Leffe Brewery more than meets expectations. Leffe was born in 1240 and initially brewed by monks for hygiene (water wasn’t sanitary) and of course hospitality, since duty dictated monks welcome travellers and pilgrims. Maison Leffe will stimulate your senses with interactive experiences and tastings, exploring eight centuries of beer making. Don’t forget there are nine kinds of Leffe beers to try. Cheers!
Château de Fryer – a sensual pleasure with a citrus and coffee twist
The final stopping point is Château de Freyr. Unlike many of the Meuse Valley’s fortified castles, Freyr doesn’t sit on a rocky spur but right on the banks of the River Meuse. Likened often to a mini Versailles, it illuminates the valley with its ode to the French formal garden in the style of ‘Le Notre’. It exudes sparkling elegance with bubbling fountains and ponds sitting like a jewel encased in wild and untouched nature of the surrounding countryside accentuating its beauty. The 300-yearold orange trees ooze citrus scents lining the paths of landscaped gardens and a 6km maze.
For the best experience of Château de Freyr Castle and its surroundings walk along the road ‘Dinant – Beauraing’ on the right bank for some of the best views of the castle and the gardens. On the left bank, you’ll discover prehistoric caves, musical birdsong, subtropical plants and former vineyards to add to the pleasure of your visit.
“What they all have in common are dramatic river settings and wild verdant nature.”