A royal route along the river Ourthe
Castles, conflicts and a sprinkle of Wallonian quirk.
FROM LA ROCHE-EN-ARDENNE via Hotton to Harzé, this region has known violence and bloodshed in more than one era, the most recent conflict being the Battle of the Bulge. In the Ardennes, several fortresses were erected along the Ourthe Valley, some ending in tragedy, whilst others assumed the role of elegant, manorial residences. A wealth of military cemeteries and memorial sites can also be found along this route. These can all be done on foot or by car. And of course Wallonia wouldn’t be Wallonia without a few quirks, so don’t miss the local beer from gnomes – (yes really).
Château de la Roche-en-Ardenne
Starting from this charming little Ardennes’ town with its fortified castle blending into the landscape you’ll recognise a picture postcard image of the Ardenne. A castle has stood in this spot since the 12th century on the ruins of a Roman camp when Henry the Blind Count of Namur built one to protect the passage of goods transiting on the English Wool route to Lombardy. It has since taken on many guises. At some point it fell to ruin and was even used as a stone quarry. When the railway arrived in La Roche, the ruins presented an alluring tourist attraction. Miraculously, they survived the destruction of the town, which was 90% destroyed during WWII in the terrible winter of 1944-1945. If you fancy a stop off, a tour takes you back to how it was back in the day. Highlights include falconry demonstrations, reenactments, medieval fairs and feasts.
Battle of the Ardennes Museum – lest we forget
Before setting off you, explore this fascinating museum. Privately run, it’s the brainchild of Michel Bouillon and his son Gilles. What started
“Wallonia wouldn't be Wallonia without a few quirks – don't miss the beer from gnomes.”
off as a modest hobby collecting artefacts relating to the battle, after the war that just grew and grew; in the end, the two men accumulated so many objects that in 1993 they decided to open a museum. This has grown dramatically so that it now covers 1,500 square metres spread over three floors.
The dioramas and showcases display more than 100 mannequins of soldiers donning equipment and weapons, as well as uniforms donated by veterans who fought in the battle. Visit the weapons room where some 90 rifles, pistols and revolvers are displayed, as well as one of famous ‘Enigma’ cypher machines...
Hotton Military Cemetery
Halfway along the route lies (CWGC) Hotton War Cemetery. Most of the Commonwealth troops who died in the battle of the Ardennes are buried here. It sits 5km north-east of Marche-en-Famenne on the N86. The cemetery is close to the western limit of the German offensive of December 1944 – 666 men are resting there: 340 foot soldiers and 325 airmen. The site is meticulously maintained with colourful flower arrangements between graves and an abundance of bees and butterflies in summer months. Slightly removed from the others lies the grave of Jimmy Short, who was the principal Hotton Gardener for many years. He asked to be buried alongside the warriors whose graves he attended.
Château de Harzé – the giant of stone
Final stop but what a finale. A presence established on a hillock. This manorial residence dominates the little village of Harzé. The 17th-century main building offers a stone façade, interspersed with high windows where the rooms of the castle turned hotel are located. If you are staying as a guest, you can immerse yourself in the architecture and culture of the Renaissance period. The superb façade of the courtyard, considerably pierced with bay windows, opens on the ground level onto a typically Renaissance gallery with Tuscan order columns... A stone bridge crossing the old moats leads to a large farmyard surrounded by buildings and towers which house the Milling and Baking Museum.