‘A perfect little city’

So says Bill Bryson of William the Conqueror’s wall in the north.

ATIGHT BEND in the river Wear almost completely encircles one of the world’s most precious survivals from the Norman age – the peninsula containing Durham Castle and cathedral. Built at the behest of William the Conqueror in 1072, the castle was a bulwark against attack from the north, and home to the Bishop of Durham. No ordinary cleric William Walcher – instead, the new king decreed, he would be a ‘Bishop prince’, with the power to hold parliament, mint coins and raise taxes – and an army. Most of all, to stop the Scots getting any ideas about paying a visit. So successful was the fortress (built from stone quarried from the cliffs on which it stands), it was the only Norman castle never to be breached. Since 1837 it has been home to one of Durham University’s 17 colleges, and though it’s a working academic institution, walking tours (£5) are held several times a day (dur.ac.uk/durham.castle). Beyond the city the treasures of the Durham Dales await – including High Force, Cauldron Snout and surrounding high, lonely hills.

EMPOWERING THE REGIONS Durham’s cathedral was the workplace of Bishop prince – and bulwark in the north – William Walcher.