It might be England’s largest island, but you’re never far from the sea on the rolling roads of the Isle of Wight
Want to feel like you’re going abroad without leaving the UK? The Isle of Wight offers quiet roads, punchy climbs and endless sea views
Sense of place is a strange thing. When you feel like you belong somewhere the emotional response can be powerful, and it’s a sensation that washes over me as I pedal out onto the pristine tarmac roads of the Isle of Wight. I live in London these days, but for me the Isle of Wight will always be home. I was brought up here, and seeing the island’s cliffs and beaches again brings memories flooding back of days spent riding the lanes when I was younger. I may now live on the mainland, but in my heart I remain a Caulkhead (as we Islanders are known) and my flag is shades of blue interspersed with white.
For me today’s ride is not so much about exploring somewhere new as reacquainting myself with my home after a period away. Although not everything is the same as when I left. I remember the roads here used to be in an atrocious condition, so it’s a welcome change to discover that many of them are now wonderfully smooth and inviting.
Still, the peak of a heatwave and in the midst of a global pandemic may not seem like the best time to embark on a 130km ride here, but those are the conditions in which we head away from Ryde Pier in the northwest of the Island. Fortunately our ride has coincided with a period of relaxed restrictions during the summer of 2020, so we are fully Covid-compliant. It also helps that my ride partner for today is my sister, Arielle.
Family affair
It’s still early in the morning, and with a light sea breeze and the sun not yet too high, the opening kilometres are extremely pleasant as we catch up on each other’s news. The main theme of today’s ride is the duality of coastlines and country lanes, so I have been careful to include the punchiest of climbs and finest of views.
Our route will take us first in an easterly direction, before heading south and then west all the way around the edge of the Island to the westernmost tip, before tracing an irregular course across the centre, via some of the Isle of Wight’s most picturesque lanes, to bring us back to our start point in Ryde.
The main topic of conversation during the first 10km towards the Island’s eastern tip is where we should stop
The reward for tackling the hill is one of the best views on the Island over the beaches and blue sea of Sandown Bay
Cowleaze Hill is a real test for the legs, around 1.5km with gradients close to 15% in places
for lunch. Maybe it’s all the fishing boats we pass along Bembridge Embankment that puts us in mind of food. By the time we’ve passed through the village of Bembridge – much in need of pedestrianisation – and out into the rolling hills beyond, the conversation has changed to the topic of moustaches.
Arielle reminds me just how much one of our cousins hates moustaches, which is a none-too-subtle jibe at my own attempts to grow just such a facial accoutrement. I explain that I have been trying to coax one out of my top lip since Boris Johnson’s three-word phrase of choice was ‘stay at home’. I’m saved from any further enquiries into my suspect reasoning by the sudden appearance of the town of Brading.
The main road that circumnavigates the Island passes through Brading and we could turn off here to follow it around the coast. However the road can be busy with traffic on any normal weekend, let alone during a rare period of travel freedom when tourist numbers seem to be back to levels not seen since the launch of foreign package holidays. Instead we opt to make our way on quieter lanes through the villages of Adgestone and Alverstone, flanked by high hedges throughout.
The roads are narrow enough that cars tend to avoid this route so we’re untroubled by motor traffic, and the shade from the hedges is welcome as the temperature starts to rise into the high 20s. These early kilometres through gentle countryside are very enjoyable, although
I’m aware that this is merely a warm-up and that the main test of the day is not far away.
Having completed around 25km of our ride we turn onto a main road that takes us back out to the coast at Shanklin, and once we have sauntered through the seaside resort’s beautiful Old Village, we emerge at the foot of Cowleaze Hill.
The deep south
The hardest climb of the day may not be the Angliru, but Cowleaze is still a real test for the legs, offering around 1.5km of climbing with gradients close to 15% in places.
The reward for tackling the hill is one of the best views on the Island. A quick glance to the left after the steep, early slopes reveals the beaches and blue sea of Sandown Bay, and the vista stretches across to the white cliffs of Culver in the distance.
Not that we can spend too long enjoying such vistas as the climb has a sting in its tail. It doesn’t finish quite where it feels like it should, and another kilometre of false flat chips away at our energy before we can recharge on the descent.
From here we trace the coast through Ventnor and Niton (not to be confused with Knighton, where locals know to pronounce the K), shaded by trees and pushed along by a cooling breeze until we emerge onto the exposed roads near Blackgang and get a taste of the promised 30°C temperatures.
This area is my favourite. I prefer it even to such cycling hotspots as Mallorca, the Alps or the cobbles of France and Belgium
Down here – the Island’s deep south – is, or at least was, smuggler country. In fact, a relative once assured me we were descended from the shipwreckers and bootleggers that once prowled these coastlines.
To avoid fast-moving traffic on the long, straight Military Road we turn inland at Southdown and wind our way through the farmland and pretty villages of Atherfield and Yafford to the southern edge of Brighstone. Of all the places I’ve ridden this area of the Island is my absolute favourite. I prefer it even to such cycling hotspots as Mallorca, the Alps or the cobbles of France and Belgium. When the wind blows and the rain falls you can picture yourself riding in a spring Classic – the narrow, twisting lanes lending themselves to threshold efforts – yet when the sun is out there are few places that compare for relaxed summer riding.
I leave my reverie as we exit the lanes near Brighstone and rejoin the Military Road, and now it’s time to get out of the saddle again. We’re faced with the sun’s full blast as we take on a two-part climb between Compton Bay and Freshwater Bay to the west. The first part hugs the coastline, and the effort of the climb is rewarded with a twisting descent before the longer second part eventually gives way to views of the azure waters and grey sand of Freshwater Bay.
We continue towards Alum Bay at the westernmost tip of the Island, famous for its multi-coloured sands and views out over the spires of white rock known as the Needles. We could haul ourselves up the dead-end climb to the viewpoint at the cliff edge, but we have other priorities. Lunch is calling.
Return journey
Off The Rails is housed in Yarmouth’s old train station. A victim of Dr Beeching’s rail closures, the building is now a cycle-friendly cafe and the old railway line a cycle track that’s perfect for a leisurely gravel ride.
We plan to stick to the roads, however, and after an excellent refuelling lunch we start our return journey across the centre of the Island. This part of the route takes in one of my favourite roads, Broad Lane, which arcs elegantly through farm fields with no hedge to obscure the view. It was near here in August 1970 that Jimi Hendrix treated a crowd of 600,000 to his last live UK performance before his untimely death.
A haze of cloud moves in to cover the sun as we climb back over the Island’s central ridge towards Brighstone. A maze of country lanes takes us to the Newport-sandown cycletrack, which we join at Horringford and enjoy a few clicks of traffic-free riding to Pedallers Cafe. It’s not on our agenda today, but is well worth a visit if you’re planning a ride here.
The last 15km to Ryde Pier includes a late couple of punches – the Lime Kiln Shute climb followed later by the climb to the crossroads at Upton. From here it is just about possible to roll without pedalling the final 3.5km to the seafront. Time it well and you can ride up the pier and onto the Wightlink Fast Cat.
Better still, why not stay and head out for another ride the next day? The Isle of Wight has plenty to offer.
Jack Elton-walters is website editor at Cyclist and receives no commission from the Isle of Wight Tourist Board. Honestly
You can picture yourself riding in a spring Classic – the twisting lanes lending themselves to threshold efforts