How we did it

TRAVEL

Venice Marco Polo is the best airport for flying cheaply. From there it’s a two-hour drive to Arta Terme via the faster toll roads – expect to pay around €15 each way – but we’d recommend going cross-country for a more scenic passage.

ACCOMMODATION

The Grand Hotel Gortani is a classically Italian hotel in Arta Terme, with spacious rooms, spa, swimming pool and wellkept gardens. Double rooms start at around £70pn in June. See gortani.it for more details.

THANKS

Big thanks to Marco Cantagallo, who planned our route and guided us enthusiastically, his father Emiliano for lending us Marco (he is usually a bike guide) and Mauricio, who drove our photographer and dished up an impromptu picnic. Emiliano and Marco run Pendenze Periclose bike tours (pendenzepericolose. it). Thanks also to the Grand Hotel Gortani’s manager, Chiara, for being so accommodating of bicycles and early breakfasts.

Right: The top of the Zoncolan is absolutely the kind of climb that requires photographic evidence. According to the Fiets grading system, the ‘classic’ ascent from Ovaro is ranked 52nd in the world, with a score of 14.2 Fiets. Cyclist ’s climb from Priola scores 14.6 on the same index…