The cone of Teide’s summit is seemingly so far away as to be on another Canary Island altogether
are increasingly scarce, and the temperature at this altitude is most likely pleasant for sitting on a terrace, which might not be the case in the kilometres to come.
The TF-523 road meanders upwards at a reasonably consistent 4-5% gradient. The buildings disappear but the views down towards the island’s southeast coast become ever more expansive. That is until you find yourself in thick woodland that obscures the vista but provides some welcome shade from the sun.
After climbing for 22km from Güímar you finally arrive at the junction with the TF-24. If you were to turn right here you could enjoy a speedy descent to the island’s capital at Santa Cruz de Tenerife. But you are turning left to continue on the inexorable journey uphill, and you’re not even halfway to the top yet.
The trees continue to obstruct the view but occasionally a gap appears, and through it is revealed the cone of Teide’s summit, seemingly so far away as to be on another Canary Island altogether. The enormity of the climb now starts to dawn on you. And you also can’t help noticing that it’s beginning to get a bit chilly.
Mood swings
Tenerife, like many volcanic islands, generates its own microclimates such that it is possible to ride from beneath overcast skies, through damp fog, to emerge above the clouds in blazing sunshine and then end up riding past snow drifts, all in the same trip.
The landscape also changes from one kilometre to the next, starting with Mediterranean-style coastal towns, morphing into lush pine forests and eventually becoming more arid, until all that’s left is a barren moonscape of jagged, brown rocks strewn across empty lava fields.
The lunar feel of the surroundings is only heightened by the appearance after 34km of a series of domed observatory buildings, perched on a hillside and staring out into space. This marks a high point on the ride at 2,295m, but it isn’t quite the end.
From the observatory the road drops down for 6km – a welcome break for air-starved lungs – taking you into Teide’s collapsed crater, before climbing again for a final 9km to reach the highest point on the ride at 2,359m.
It’s hard to call it a summit, as it is essentially a giant bowl of dark dust and solidified lava, but at least there is no more altitude to gain. There is, however, more climbing to come to get back over the lip of the caldera. Then the only decision to make is which of the many roads on offer you’re going to take to get back down again.