Passage to Asia
I’d always been keen to see the wonders of India – the Taj Mahal, the Red Fort, the Golden Temple. But as for the country that created them, I was wary. I’d heard about the mad traffic, the crazy crowds and the heartbreaking poverty.
However, when I saw cruise line Fred.Olsen’s Incredible India itinerary – involving a voyage down the west coast of the sub-continent, from Mumbai to Sri Lanka – I was convinced.
There were excursions showing off the best of India, and every night you got to retreat to the comfort of the MV Boudicca.
My first trip into the mayhem of Mumbai was a revelation. I didn’t just love the craziness, I found it thrilling, and the sheer, relentless optimism of its people was like a shot in the arm. Xavier, founder of the Jesuits, are here in an ornate silver casket.
We also took a walk around the state capital Panjim, where the Portuguese colonial influence lives on in its vividly painted houses. Scarlet, ochre and indigo blare out from elegant villas with red-tiled roofs, ornate balconies and discreet clues to the original owners’ political loyalties.
As Boudicca sailed steadily south we came to Kochi, the state capital of Kerala, where The Real Marigold Hotel was filmed. We were told people who had TV cameos are now local celebrities. One tailor even advertises itself as “Lionel Blair’s dressmaker”.
Our mission here was to see the beautiful backwaters of Alappuzha, in one of Kerala’s famous houseboats. Once used to transport rice or spices along a vast network of rivers and lakes, today their cargo is tourists, and they come with air conditioning and bathrooms.
As we glided across the water, herons, cormorants and kites fished for their supper around us.
But as much as we enjoyed exploring, it was good to return to the relaxed efficiency of the Boudicca – and the non-stop treats from the ship’s kitchen.
Full board is included. You can eat in one of the main restaurants and be served breakfast, lunch and five-course dinners or opt for the more informal vibe at the Secret Garden Cafe’s buffet. In the Four Seasons, chicken and vegetable curries with dhal and naan bread were delicious – spicy, fresh and fragrant. One night we ate at The Poolside Grill (£20 premium) where we had fat, perfectly cooked scallops then surf and turf – a juicy ribeye and lobster – plus pudding. Afternoon tea is good too. You get tea, sandwiches and cakes in the regular restaurants. But for a £6.75 supplement you can upgrade to the premium version in the Observatory Lounge – finger sandwiches, elegant patisserie and dinky scones still warm from the oven. But Boudicca was approaching her last port of call, Colombo, capital of Sri Lanka, where we enjoyed a tour of Pettah, the lively market district where each Victoria central train station in Mumbai street offers one product – fabric, jewellery, dried fish, spices etc.
Then there’s the elegant side of Colombo, with its manicured parks and pristine monuments. We visited the Independence Memorial Hall and the peaceful Asokaramaya Temple, which has a collection of Buddha statues.
But what I miss, when I look back on this amazing trip, is the crazy, colourful, chaotic energy of places like Mumbai and Pettah.
Peace and order, I’ve come to see, are a bit overrated.