Bubbling along nicely in France
Paul Davies sails from Paris to Epernay and back to savour Champagne, Brie and history
IT’S not every day you wake to see a bank of swans gliding past your window. Enjoying this tranquil start to my day, the restorative effects of spending a full week water cruising from Paris to Epernay to Paris were already exerting their magical spell upon my senses.
My home for the week was the glamorous canal boat, MS Raymonde. With just 11 cabins and hot tubs on the top deck, it almost felt as if I was aboard a private charter as we glided along the majestic Marne-Rhine Canal, lined with some of France’s prettiest cities.
What was noticeably different from most floating hotels was the colour of the decor. Modern bright purple sofas, deck chairs and tables with splashes of orange in the soft furnishings offered a fun, uplifting environment.
This being France, meals were sumptuous three-course affairs with fine wines. It was just as well we had booked some excursions to work off the indulgence.
In Reims we wandered the magnificent cathedral built in 1345 and where almost all the kings of France were crowned, including the first one, Clovis, in 497.
The smiling angel statue next to the entrance became a symbol of the French Resistance during the FirstWorldWar.The head of the angel was taken around the towns and cities of France to raise funds for the French war effort.
Nearby is the beautiful round art deco-designed library commissioned by Andrew Carnegie, with its impressive stained-glass windows and intricate metalwork.
Everyone gathered back on board for the ritual of cocktail hour in the lounge – the central focal point for card games and quiz nights. I preferred being on the top deck and taking in the
views of the dreamy towns. Everyone was bubbling with excitement as the canal cruiser moored up for us to visit premium and smaller Champagne houses. Vineyards proliferate like a patchwork tapestry throughout the countryside and nestled in the Abbey in Eperney lie the remains of Dom Perignon – the monk who it is claimed invented the method for making Champagne. Epernay is regarded as the capital of the Champagne region and familiar names of Champagne houses such as Pol Roger, Moet et Chandon and Perrier-Jouet, have their grand houses located cheek by jowl here on the aptly named Avenue de Champagne. However, it was Jack Demiere, one of the smaller Champagne producers in the nearby town of Fleury-la-Rivière, who revealed the secrets that go into the production of Champagne.
His musty cellar was intoxicating in itself with rows upon rows of bottles of bubbly in different stages of production. He added sugar and yeast to his bottles to create Champagne, while giving me tastings of the different stages of the process.
Returning to the boat, I dreamt of floating on a river of bubbles towards my next destination: the historic Castle Thierry and the centre of falconry, built on an imposing hilltop overlooking the town of the same name. Not much of the original buildings exists as, over centuries, the town’s buildings and dwellings were erected using stones from the inner castle’s buildings.
It was here, swooping over my head, that a bald eagle disappeared over the medieval battlement into a valley below. It suddenly re-emerged, eyes trained upon the morsel of meat draped over the falconer’s glove. Landing majestically, it folded its feathers and chewed upon its reward.
Next on our own menu was Brie. Cheese is almost a religion in Meaux and nothing could prepare me for the greeting laid on by members of the Brotherhood of Brie at The Brie Museum.
Wearing long white silk robes and large round hats – containing a whole round of Brie – upon their heads, the quirky-looking group arranges daily tastings of this revered, creamy fromage while explaining its history.
Back on board, birdwatching proved a popular pastime for passengers on the top deck as the River Marne is home to many feathered species.
After passing ornately decorated houses lining the river in a mix of architectural styles from the classic 18th century, neo-Gothic and art deco periods, there was a magical moment as The Marne joined The Seine and Paris began to move into view as our canal cruiser headed towards its final mooring point in the shade of the Eiffel Tower.
I looked up to a tower sparkling with lights as though in harmony with Champagne. That Dom Perignon was certainly bubbling over with wisdom far beyond his years.
THE KNOWLEDGE
CroisiEurope (020 8328 1281/ croisieurope.co.uk) offers a sevenday cruise from Paris to Epernay from £2,126pp, full board. Departs May 7, 21 and July 16, 2020. Flights extra. Champagne tourism: champagne.fr