What’s the fuss about retinol?
Each week our experts Dr AAMER KHAN and LESLEY REYNOLDS bring you the latest beauty news and anti-ageing advice
IT’S HAILED as a skincare superhero that tackles everything from signs of ageing to pigmentation marks and skin tone. But for all its science-backed skin benefits, retinol is also one of the most misunderstood beauty ingredients and can be tricky to use for some. So if you’re hoping to reap the benefits, here’s how to make it work for you.
Is this just another fad?
Thanks to the hype, it may seem like the latest miracle ingredient, but retinol has been around for well over 50 years, when it was first used to treat acne.
However, experts soon noticed it also had a number of other skin benefits and left skin looking healthier and younger.
What exactly is retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A and available in many derivatives such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate, known as retinoids.
You can also get retinol at a prescription level – a retinoic acid commonly called tretinoin or retin-A, which is stronger than over-the-counter alternatives.
How does it work?
Retinol works best when used at night.When applied to skin, it is broken down to retinoic acid, an active form of vitamin A.
This increases cellular turnover, sweeping away the dead cells that cause dullness and boosting collagen and elastin by stimulating cellular repair at the deepest level of the skin.
It also pumps up circulation by increasing blood vessel formation, so skin looks healthier. Some users find it comes with irritating side effects including dry, flaking skin and redness. It can also make some skin sun-sensitive, which is why using a high SPF50 during the day is essential.
Is it safe for all skin types?
Most skin types can use retinol but those with rosacea, eczema and psoriasis should get advice first and it should also be avoided by anyone who is pregnant. Prescription strength levels should be supervised, so ask a skin expert if you’re in doubt.
Will all forms of retinol give the same result?
Not all retinol products work the same or deliver the same results. It depends on the dose and the formulation. Retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate are less irritating but take longer to see results. Some products also contain a much higher percentage and work faster.
However, formulation is just as important as more brands are also using other ingredients in their products such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides to act like a buffer preventing some of the negative side effects.
As a result people with sensitive skin who previously struggled using retinol can now reap the benefits.
How can I use retinol?
Everyone’s skin reacts differently but some irritation is normal in the first few weeks as your skin starts to adapt.
If you’re new to retinol, build up your skin’s tolerance gradually.
Use a low concentration (around 0.1-0.5 per cent) after cleansing and apply a moisturiser first to help your skin adjust. Start off with a pea-sized amount and use it two times a week, always at night, then slowly increase the usage until you’re using it every night. After a few weeks, as your skin adjusts, you can reverse the regime by using retinol first, followed by moisturiser.
We also recommend using a
ceramide-rich cream during the day to feed the skin, plus an SPF.
Also, make sure you are not doubling up on retinol and it is not in any other skincare you are using.
Can I use it around my eyes?
Retinol can be great for undereye crepiness but do a test patch first.
Use sparingly, dab around the eyes every third night and never apply it closer to the eye than the orbital bone.
When will I see results?
Depending how often you are using it and the dosage, you should start seeing glowboosting results within 28 days.
Use it for three months then take a three-month break as research suggests cell turnover is no longer increased after three months of retinol usage.
● For advice on cosmetic surgery, consult your GP. For more of Lesley’s tips, visit lesleyreynolds.com