Taking off… the blackbird of wines soars

REMEMBER Sideways? Easily the best, perhaps the only, and certainly the funniest film about the ups and downs of drinking wine ever made. The 2004 comedy- drama opened the eyes of millions of us to the pleasures of wine – even if grumpy old Miles ( Paul Giamatti) put many people off merlot by refusing to drink it ( he favoured pinot noir).

That wine snob dislike probably came about because of the grape’s sheer ubiquity in California, where Sideways is set. Globally, only cabernet sauvignon is more widely grown. But ignore all that Hollywood hokum, it’s a fantastic variety cultivated everywhere simply because it is reliable and versatile. In this case, familiarity shouldn’t breed contempt.

Originating from Bordeaux, merlot roughly translates to “little blackbird” in an old French dialect: possibly a reference to the grape’s dark blue/ black colouring or the fact birds love eating them. It is the sole or main constituent in wines ranging from pleasant plonk for under a tenner to grand marques such as Chateau Pétrus which can command a price tag of more than £ 5,000 a bottle.

On its own, it produces soft juicy plump wines. But its fruity, friendly character means it plays an important role in blends alongside varieties such as cabernet sauvignon.

Because merlot wine is medium bodied, without too much tannin and acidity, it pairs well with a wide variety of foods. But the classic Bordeaux blend with slightly more tannin is the ideal partner for roast beef. Lip- smacking!