Fun runs
Paul Rhodes is down for some action in ‘ The Cradle of Alpine Skiing’ in Austria
The Arlberg region in Austria dubs itself The Cradle of Alpine Skiing – and with good reason. Early members of its famous ski club, founded in St Christoph in 1901, helped to develop downhill skiing.
And when I visited the slopes around this alpine idyll last winter, I quickly understood how they had become so inspired.
The first hotel in the village was founded by a shepherd in the 1300s to provide shelter to travellers crossing the Arlberg pass. A few more have popped up since then, but not many, lending it a more serene atmosphere than its larger, more boisterous neighbour, St Anton.
I settled in at the refurbished Hotel Arlberg in St Christoph, which is run by English firm VIP Ski. The hotel has bags of charm, as well as good food, spacious rooms and English staff providing wonderful hospitality. Even better, it is right next to the lifts.
For while St Christoph is small, it is linked with the vast Arlberg ski region, the largest in Austria and fifth biggest in the world. Its 88 lifts and cable cars, almost all of them high- speed, and some blessed with heated seats, whisk skiers to 305km of pistes and 200km of freeride terrain, which should keep the most avid mountain enthusiasts satisfied.
A trio of drag lifts by the hotel lead to runs perfect for children, firsttimers and nervous novices.
On the other side of the hotel is the four- person St Christoph chair, which took me to the top of the Galzig ( 2,185m), where I found wide, well- groomed blues on which to find my ski legs again. Even in an unseasonably warm midDecember, there was plenty of snow cover and acres of corduroy to shred.
After my warm- up, I hopped on the 10- person Schindlergrat gondola, which took
me to the top of the Schindler Spitze ( 2,660m), beside the 2,811m Vallunga, the highest peak in the region.
Non- skiers can take the cable car to the peak of the Vallunga to soak up the views, but those who want to ski there must be accompanied by a guide.
But a guide is not necessary from the Schindlergrat, where a fast and fun red run awaits.
It takes you back to the Galzig or you can follow on down the mountain into the neighbouring ski village of Stuben, where ambitious riders can travel on to Zurs, Lech, Oberlech, Stubenbach and Warth. All the lifts in these resorts are covered by your Arlberg ski pass – just give yourself enough time to get back before the lifts shut or you could face a pricey taxi ride ( Warth is two hours and about € 200 from St Christoph).
Family- friendly Lech was a favourite of Princess Diana, who skied
there with William and Harry. But the lift link from Zurs was shut on the day I was there as it was very early in the season. So I toured the many entertaining reds around picturesque Zurs before heading back to the top of the Galzig, via Stuben, for a very civilised lunch at the Verwallstube.
Be sure to book in advance for one of the best classic wiener schnitzels in the region (€ 24.60). The panoramic views are just as enjoyable as they take in the valley down to St Anton and across to the Rendl.
The Rendl is the place to ski when St Anton’s slopes are busy and should not be missed. Its long red run back into St Anton is a joy.
After lunch and a few more turns on the slopes, I headed down Happy Valley, the set of red and blue runs from the Galzig that lead to the base. These are a favourite of British skiers, possibly because they also pass St Anton’s legendary apres- ski venues.
One of the biggest, MooserWirt, kicks off the party at 3.30pm daily, with 80s hit The Final Countdown blasted from the speakers, followed by more dance music and Europop. The venue is geared up for fun, with loads of space inside and out for a boogie. I was told there is 40km of piping used to keep the beer flowing to its many bars. Well, I never ran out.
Hungry and thirsty gangs of four or more can order
TOP SPOT Hotel Arlberg
The Big Moooooooosi, which consists of a giant hamburger with all the trimmings, a variety of fries and a three- litre glass of wheat beer – all for an eye- watering € 158.31.
Smaller and less expensive meals and drinks are available.
Skiers can get back to St Christoph from MooserWirt by taxi ( a five- minute ride) or on a free bus from the bottom of the slope ( mind those final few hundred metres of skiing after a beer and a Jaegerbomb!). But a more measured apres- ski experience can be had back at Hotel Arlberg, where tea and cake is served daily from 4pm. There is also a huge deck for sunny days.
Wine- lovers will want to check out the neighbouring Hospiz Alm, which has the largest big- bottle wine cellar in Europe. Equally noteworthy is the slide they have to the loos – much easier than navigating stairs in your ski boots. Unfortunately, they haven’t installed a lift back up yet!
I pulled myself away from the apres- ski to get to the hotel in time for an in- room massage by an English NHS physiotherapist before dinner. My hamstrings thanked me for it.
Dinner at the hotel is not to be missed. The gourmet three- course menu hit the spot after a day skiing. And after a digestif in the bar, I was ready to do it all again the next day…
Covid measures will be in place when the resort opens for the winter on December 4
The slide to the loos is easier than navigating stairs in your ski boots