DIY beauty treatments unmasked

Lockdown has seen a rise in DIY treatments, with at-home microneedling and teeth whitening and even laser hair removal kits all available. But are they safe,

With salons closed for business during lockdown and the increased availability of DIY kits, it can be tempting to take beauty matters into your own hands.

However, with dentists warning that at-home teeth whitening kits can damage gums and enamel, are some treatments better left to the professionals? We ask the experts for their advice.

TEETH WHITENING At the dentist:

Dentists use gels containing hydrogen peroxide or carbamide peroxide to whiten teeth.

“They take moulds of your teeth and make custom trays to ensure a snug fit so the whitening gel inserted into the trays works in the correct area,” says orthodontist Dr Chaw-Su Kyi (westlondon orthodontist.co.uk).

DIY dangers: “It’s always best to consult a dentist to assess if your teeth and gums are healthy enough to undergo a whitening procedure,” says Dr Kyi.

“If you do buy over-the-counter products, make sure you use a reputable UK retailer. Imported goods may contain high levels of hydrogen peroxide, which can erode teeth and burn the gums, lips and inside of the mouth.

“Remember, using a home kit won’t provide you with custom-made trays, and the whitening gel can easily leak on to your gums from poorly fitting trays, increasing your risk of sensitivity.”

MICRONEEDLING

At the clinic: This treatment involves puncturing the skin with a roller covered in micro needles to reach the skin’s deepest layers. “The skin reacts with a woundhealing response, repairing itself and stimulating the natural production of collagen to create smoother, younger-looking skin,” says skin therapist Nicola Russell (skingeek.co.uk). “It needs to be performed in a sterile environment by a trained professional.”

DIY dangers: “A deep-penetrating roller should only ever be used by a professional,” says Nicola. “A safe at-home microneedling roller should have shorter needle lengths and will only penetrate the outer layers of skin. Results won’t compare with a professional treatment, but it should help your favourite serum absorb more deeply.

“Your roller should not be used on anyone else and must be sterilised between use. Don’t use if you have irritated or infected skin, active acne, skin cancer, keloid scars or during high doses of oral or topical vitamin A.”

DERMAPLANING

At the salon: “This is an exfoliation treatment where a therapist uses a surgical-grade scalpel to gently remove dead skin cells and fine hair from the face,” says Nicola. “It’s pain-free if carried out by a trained professional who knows the correct pressure to apply, and the treatment gives skin a smoother, brighter appearance.”

DIY dangers: “If someone dermaplanes their own face, there’s a high chance of injury such as scratches and deeper cuts that could cause infection and scarring,” says Nicola.

“At-home dermaplaning tools aren’t as sharp or effective as those used by a professional, but applying too much pressure with any blade can result in redness, inflammation and sensitivity. Steer clear of dermaplaning if you have acne, cold sores or skin infections.”

LASER HAIR REMOVAL

At the clinic: A laser emits a light beam, which is absorbed by pigment in the hair. This heats up and damages the hair follicle, slowing hair growth.

“Usually eight sessions will result in around 80 per cent reduction of hair growth,” says Lucy Dawe, senior consultant at Pulse

Light Clinic (pulse lightclinic.co.uk).

“Expect to have one to four top-up treatments the following year.”

DIY dangers: “At-home IPL hair removal gadgets use a less powerful type of light than laser and usually require twice weekly treatments to see a satisfying result,” says Lucy.

They’re only effective on skins with low levels of melanin (darker skin tones absorb more energy from the light, which can cause damage and burns). Blonde and grey hair doesn’t contain enough melanin for this treatment to work, either.

“You should also not use them on skin that’s tanned or been treated with fake tan, or on tattooed areas or moles, as it can cause burning or scarring,” warns Lucy.

CHEMICAL PEELS

At the clinic: These exfoliating treatments use acid solutions to remove cells from the top, middle or deeper layers of the skin, depending on the strength of treatment. The results include smoothing fine lines, fading pigmentation marks and boosting radiance.

DIY dangers: “We use salicylic, glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids, and even in the lowest concentration they can damage skin if not used by a professional,” says Dr Hiba Injibar from Harley Street skin clinic Dermasurge (dermasurge.co.uk). “Burns, pigmentation and scarring are all possible, and if the product goes too near the eyes, it can cause permanent damage. I would advise staying well clear of peels at home. “Instead I’d recommend glycolic acid pads to brighten and improve uneven skin tone. They’re a good stand-in when you’re unable to get to clinics.”

EYELASH TINTING

At the salon: Tinting helps create the appearance of darker, longer lashes without the need for mascara. “A patch test must always be performed, usually 48 hours prior to treatment, as there is a risk of an allergic reaction,” says Jade Comery founder of The 3D Clinic (the3Dclinic. co.uk).

DIY dangers: As well as many home users failing to do that essential patch test, there’s much scope for error, says Jade.

“You need to mix the product yourself and if the consistency is too watery, or you load too much on lashes, the dye can seep into eyes and cause burning and blurred vision.

“And if the product is left on too long, you risk damaging the natural eyelashes. I’d say it’s best left to the professionals.”

CRYOTHERAPY FACIAL

At the salon: This treatment involves “freezing” your face – it’s sometimes called Frotox because of its tightening effect.

In some salons, a machine is used to safely pump liquid nitrogen vapour over skin, while other facialists use icy massage rollers.

“Benefits include reducing puffiness and inflammation, soothing redness and increasing facial lymphatic drainage,” says Nicola Russell.

DIY dangers: You won’t be able to get hold of a machine to use liquid nitrogen vapour on your own face, but there are safe tools and devices, such as ice and cryo rollers, that you can use to enjoy similar benefits.

These gadgets are designed to be kept in the fridge or freezer and rolled over the skin.

‘‘ It’s advised to stay well clear of trying to perform a chemical peel in your home