Cam into blossom
Beautiful camellias are a sure sign winter is over and spring is about to burst forth
The first plump, powderpuff camellia flowers are eagerly awaited each year, telling us gardeners that winter really is over and better days are finally on the way. And once they start opening, which is any time from now, the camellia season lasts roughly until mid-May.
For those of us who do not have the right sort of soil – camellias only thrive on neutral to acid soil that is rich in humus – it is still possible to enjoy their Hollywood-style glamour by growing them in pots.
A camellia can live in the same large pot, tub or half barrel for many years and, because the roots are restricted, it stays naturally neat and compact – even if it is normally a big variety.
Plenty of camellia plants are sold in full glory at nurseries and garden centres every spring as impulse buys for containers on a patio, tubs or beside the front door. I love the white and candystriped Lavinia Maggi, soft pink and perfectly formed Ave Maria, pink and rosette-like EG Waterhouse and the good old favourite rich pink Donation.
But if you buy one in bud or in flower now, take a tip and don’t re-pot it yet. Instead, stand it temporarily inside a bigger patio tub or decorative pot.
If you disturb the roots at this stage there is a good chance it will shed its buds, so wait until it has finished flowering before replanting it in a bigger container.
Then choose one at least 15 inches in diameter, and use ericaceous compost. Go for ericaceous John Innes if you can find it. It is loam-based so will last longer in pots. But add a little grit and some peat-free ericaceous compost to give it a fluffier texture that drains more freely as potted camellias hate having waterlogged roots, and in winter that happens all too readily. From then on it’s just a case of keeping a camellia regularly watered. Use rainwater if you collect your own in a water butt – otherwise
leave a bucket out on rainy days.
Dose it with diluted liquid tomato feed every couple of weeks from May to August. A couple of late feeds in August are especially important as that is when camellias initiate next year’s flower buds, and a quick boost of potash really helps.
Each spring, camellias appreciate having old potting compost refreshed, so shortly after flowering, remove an inch of growing medium from the top of the pot and replace it with new potting compost that you have beefed up with some slow-release feed granules. They only need re-potting when they are totally pot-bound, which may not be for two or three years or more.
But the secret of growing camellias in containers is choosing the right sheltered position, with very light dappled shade (sun is fine as long as the roots are kept cool and moist in summer) and facing any direction except east.
In a windy spot or one exposed to the early morning sun, the flowers are always disappointing because the petals turn brown.
White-flowered varieties are the worst for being affected like this, so avoid them unless you really have a truly favoured spot.
Otherwise, move your camellias into the conservatory from mid-winter onwards.
Doing this will mean the flowers open weeks earlier than usual, even without any heating.
However you grow them, camellias make brilliant tub plants for a touch of late winter glitz.
Plants in full glory are sold as impulse buys for patio pots