Magic Malta
Halina Watts explores the Med’s lesser known gem
An away-from-it-all island escape with historic cities, five-star hotels and a buzzing night-time scene…
Although this sounds like an impossible traveller, wish-list from a particularly picky all of there is a place which actually ticks these holiday boxes. some of Sitting 58 miles south of Sicily, in is the purest waters in the Mediterranean, the magical archipelago of Malta. trio of With blissful castaway allure, this bays and islands is a treasure trove of dreamy and a blue lagoons, with a rich past to explore glamorous side too. a everyone drives on the left, so it’s And English is widely spoken and hassle-free home-from-home. low-cost flights from most regional And with year-round sunshine and right now and really feel like you’ve airports, Malta is a trip you can make had a proper holiday.
Keen to get that restful feeling of small-island seclusion, but enjoy the thrill of luxury accommodation, we started our trip on Malta’s neighbour Gozo, checking into the upscale Kempinski Hotel.
Located near Dwejra Bay with its dramatic coastal formations and Ta’ Dbiegi craft village, this wow-factor resort hotel is set in lush gardens with multiple swimming pools and a top class spa. It is by far the grandest abode on Gozo with the most facilities and three beautiful dining options including an Italian trattoria and a Maltese and Mediterranean restaurant.
Tempting as it was to soak up the sun on the loungers and chill out on our balcony, we just had to explore the gloriously pretty island we’d admired from our boat transfer.
Gozo is famous for its Neolithic Ggantija Temple ruins, a UNESCO world heritage site on the crest of a hill, which was built even before Stonehenge. We also visited the island’s former capital, Citadel, with its fortified walls, cathedral and sea views.
Only six people live here, some of them working in traditional restaurant Ta’ Rikardu, sitting within the bastion walls.
Owner Rikardu produces his own cheese and wine, and you can sample Maltese speciality stuffat tal-fenek, (rabbit stew), as well as pastizzi (savoury cheese or pea cakes).
Gozo’s northern coast, meanwhile, is characterised by the chequerboard Xwejni rock cut salt pans protruding out into the sea. Part of a 350-yearold tradition, during the summer locals can be seen scraping off salt crystals from the rock face.
With so many historic gems still intact as well as its dazzling coastline, Malta has been a favourite backdrop for Hollywood movies including Troy, The Da Vinci Code and The Spy Who Loved Me as well as drama series Game of Thrones. Our brilliant movie tour guide, Clive, was an extra in Gladiator, also shot here.
Most tourists who visit Malta make a point of visiting all three of its islands. Fantastic for exploring on foot is Malta’s capital Valletta, with its opulent palaces, churches and modern architectural masterpieces.
Stroll the high bastion walls, once used as a defence against the Ottomans, and enjoy sweeping views of the Grand Harbour and across the water to Fort St Angelo. Then take in the peaceful Lower Barrakka Gardens with its water features.
When the sun goes down, Valletta transforms into a dynamic, after-dark destination with buzzing cocktail bars, live music venues and waterfront restaurants.
For a stylish stay in the heart of the city, book in to boutique townhouse hotel, The Coleridge. Named after the British poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who lived and worked in Valletta from 1804-5, each of the five suites is individually styled.
A world away from modern Malta,
‘‘ The Neolithic Ggantija Temples were built even before Stonehenge
in the centre of the island, is mysterious Mdina.
Encircled by the vast golden walls, the ‘Silent City’ is a tangle of shaded lanes and piazzas with majestic mansions and convents hidden behind unassuming doors.
With only a couple of hundred residents, very few cars and strict noise restrictions, there’s an unusual tranquility here. Its strategic location, up on high ground, make it one of the most enchanting places on the island.
From here we walked to the St Paul’s Catacombs to explore the eerie burial chambers dating from the third to the eighth centuries. The interconnecting passages, spread over 2,000 square metres, are the largest and earliest evidence of Christianity in Malta.
While the main island is steeped in history, it also boasts a string of hip and modern hangouts.
Now officially one of Europe’s leading culinary destinations, Malta’s delicious Mediterranean and North African-inspired cuisine made it into the Michelin Guide 2020.
We had dinner at Barbajean, an Art Deco-styled restaurant in the quaint village of Had-Dingli. Here young chef Jean Pierre Dingli makes the most of seasonal herbs, fruit and veg to create a modern Mediterranean-inspired Maltese menu. Who could resist the chance to try a Maltese sausage Scotch egg or casarecce pasta served with rabbit ragu?
Then there is Il Pirata, in the heart of Senglea, one of the three cities opposite Valletta. Following the success of branches in St Julians and Mellieha, its most recent opening offers tempting dishes such as lamb filo parcels and irresistible tagliata along with harbour views.
Take your pick from the dozens of seafood restaurants lining the waterfront of Marsaxlokk, Malta’s ancient fishing village.
Then stroll around the bay filled with luzzu boats painted vivid reds, yellows, greens and blues, with pairs of eyes at the front.
With such a unique coastline, some of the best experiences in Malta are to be had in the water. There are some gorgeous swimming spots including Marsaxlokk Bay beach, Il-Hofra z-Zghira and Il-Hofra l-Kbira.
Take a dip in the bluewaters of St Peter’s Pool, a natural swimming hole with flat rocks ideal for sunbathing – its remoteness means it’s rarely crowded.
Or head to Kalanka Bay, the south-eastern tip of Malta, where you can walk to the lighthouse, admire the views and take exhilarating plunges into the waters.
But for that real feeling of escape to what is near-enough a desert island, head for Malta’s smallest neighbour, Comino. Measuring just 1.5 square miles, it’s a paradise for swimmers and divers, car-free and, apart from one hotel, almost uninhabited.
Its bucket-list attraction is the Blue Lagoon, a sheltered inlet of shimmering aquamarine water over white sand that looks and feels like the Caribbean.
With so much more to these islands than meets the eye, Malta will feed your mind and melt your heart for ever.
‘‘ After dark, Valletta is transformed with live music and cocktail bars