Daily Express

Why Rioja’s on a roll...

- by Matt Nixson

SPAIN’S MOST famous wine region is characteri­sed by both rich tradition and modern innovation. Alongside the wealth of historic producers who have been making wine in Rioja for centuries, a new generation of makers are focusing on more natural wines. This means Rioja has a wonderful variety of styles. Stretching some 75 miles from north-west to south-east, the region’s geography is a big contributi­ng factor to its variety – resulting in a diversity of climates and soil types. It’s typically divided into three sub-regions: Rioja Alta is located in the western, higher part of the region; Rioja Alavesa, further east in Basque country; and Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja) further south in the eastern part of the region.

Rioja’s wine production is dominated by red wine and is almost always a blend of grape varieties. Tempranill­o is the most important grape and the heart of Rioja’s best wines.

It makes light fruity wines that age wonderfull­y in oak, becoming silky and perfumed. Typically, it will be blended with garnacha (aka grenache) to add body. Red Riojas are labelled with a quality designatio­n stating how long they have been aged for.The popular Crianza category requires at least 12 months in oak with a minimum overall ageing period of two years. It’s not just great for red wines either. White Rioja has improved enormously in recent years and offers a great range of wines. Like the reds they are a blend, with viura being the most important grape. Lightly oaked wines are light, tangy citrusy whites and well-aged examples are full-bodied, rich and nutty.

Its rosés are also fabulous.All in all, Spanish wines offer outstandin­g value for money. Reds are great with roast pork, lamb and cheese, while the whites are perfect with grilled fish or shellfish.And the rosés make fabulous aperitifs.

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