In the buff

Our skin is a constantly evolving organ, with new cell turnover every 28 to 40 days. Yet as fresh skin forms, older skin cells die and stay sitting on its surface, dulling the complexion and stopping skincare products penetrating as well. The answer? Exfoliation. Here’s how it’s done.

WHAT DOES EXFOLIATION DO?

Exfoliation is a skincare essential. It sloughs away the dulling dead skin cells sitting on the surface to reveal fresh, smooth skin underneath. Hello radiance!

It also unclogs pores, which when blocked can lead to spots, and encourages healthy skin cell turnover, which helps to fade age spots and promotes skin health.

Physical v chemical v enzyme

Physical exfoliators are those classic scrubs that feel grainy. They work by manually buffing away dead skin cells with grains such as coffee or apricot kernels. While great for the body as the skin there is thicker, they should be used with caution on the face as they are abrasive, which can cause damage.

Acid-based exfoliants are much more gentle. When applied to the skin they “unglue” the bonds holding the dead skin cells in place.

There are three main types. AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), like lactic and glycolic, are naturally occurring, often in fruit. They’re found in many general exfoliants. BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), like salicylic are often lab created, and found in products addressing certain skin concerns like acne.

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids), like lactobionic, have the largest molecular weight so work exclusively on the skin’s surface. This makes them ideal for those with reactivity.

Enzymes, often from fruit, also work to break down bonds holding dead skin cells in place. In general, they’re less potent than acids, good for those after something gentle.

How often

This depends on the product you use. Some – cleansers for example – contain less potent exfoliants and therefore can be used daily. Toners too, depending on the formulation and the sensitivity of your skin.

Treatments, acid-based masks and serums with a high concentration of acid, should be used once a week to begin with.

TOP PICKS Best for: night

Fresh Lotus AHA Gentle Resurfacing Serum, £60 (Space NK), is a serum gentle enough for nightly use, containing exfoliants glycolic acid, citric acid and prickly pear.

Best for: fast results

Farmacy Honey Glow 17% Resurfacing Serum, £56 (Space NK), combines glycolic, lactic, salicylic acid, tartaric and succinic acid with honey. Use for five consecutive nights for results.

Best for: potency

Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant, £35 (paulaschoice.co.uk), uses mandelic and lactic acid to refine skin texture while antioxidants and ferments support the microbiome.

Best for: newbies

Ren PHA Exfoliating Facial, £34 (renskincare.co.uk), is a two-minute weekly treatment with naturally pomegranate-derived PHAs and physical exfoliants.

Best for: cleanser

Ella & Jo Brighten and Glow Hydrating Exfoliating Cleanser, £30 (ellaandjo.co.uk), contains pumpkin enzymes, which gently remove dead skin cells, before they are washed away with the product down the sink.

Best for: ease

Mii Bright Skin Resurfacing Pads, £26 (miicosmetics.com), are a weekly skin treatment containing AHA, PHA, and BHAs, along with skin-tone-perfecting tranexamic acid and niacinamide.