Now Bordeaux says ‘non’ to alcoholic wines
AFTER centuries of world domination, France’s red wine makers are turning their backs on tradition and embracing non-alcoholic varieties.
One co-operative, representing 300 producers in Bordeaux, is “dealcoholising” 10% of its bottles this year.
Meanwhile, vintner Laurent David, from Chateau Edmus in St-Emilion, has been flogging his 0% red wine to Harrods, the Ritz and Selfridges – and says they can’t get enough.
“They couldn’t have been more enthusiastic,” he said of his sales trip to London last week. “They said it was exactly what they were looking for and want to make an order.”
Making non-alcoholic red is trickier than white or sparkling because the tannins become overpowering once the booze is removed.
But Bordeaux Families, a 90-yearold co-operative, has risen to the challenge with a new €2.5million (£2.2m) de-alcoholisation machine, which it first fired up in December.
Wine is brought to the factory in vats and de-alcoholised by passing through a vacuum, where pressure is lowered and alcohol is evaporated at lower temperatures – around 32C – meaning the flavours stay intact. The co-operative, which produces 100 million litres of wine per year, says it will make 10 million alcohol-free this year. There is already a month-long waiting list to use the facility.
But the innovation is costly, with Zero Edmus retailing at £55 a bottle.
Exceptional
However, it has found a big fan in Selfridges wine expert Abdelilah Ait El Caid, who describes it as “really exceptional”.
“The wine has all the components you would be looking for from a red,” he said. “It has maintained its structure and flavours. I recommend serving it slightly chilled.
“The lower temperature enhances the roundness in the mouth and replaces the lack of alcohol.”
The booze-free trend is being driven by Generation Z – people born between 1997 and 2012 – who are increasingly becoming teetotal.
In France wine overproduction is now so great that the government last year pledged €200m (£172m) to destroy the surplus.
Alcohol-free brands have not found total favour with French sommeliers, however, with some refusing to call it wine and referring to it as “juice”.