If spring’s not in the air yet, it is bottled...

THE GREAT nature writer Simon Barnes recently shared some of the early signs of spring from his Norfolk home in these pages. Every one told “a story of longer days, greater warmth and the healing of harms”. I couldn’t have put it better myself, although all these storms, bringing 70mph winds, heavy snowfall and torrential rain across the country, might have put it back a few weeks.

But if we have to wait a little longer for blue skies and clement weather, there’s always consolation to be found in the fresh, bright and fruity white wines from around the world that bring the taste of spring to our lips.

There’s something fundamentally sunny about white wine – with citrus flavours to the fore, plus flavours and aromas of fresh apples, pear and topical fruits and a crisp, tangy finish.

While deep, warming reds suggest cosy snugs, roast beef and hearty cuisine, a freshly chilled bottle of white seems to promise summer: sitting in the garden, enjoying time outdoors with friends and generally lapping up the fresh air.

It’s the perfect foil for seafood dishes, salads and white meats as well. Of course, there’s nothing remotely wrong with drinking wine in the depths of winter while the snow burdens the eaves, but I often find myself opting for white as the days get longer and lazier.

So even if spring’s still a state of mind, here are a few suggestions for some whites, from the cheap-but-utterly-cheerful to the slightly more special occasion, that will bring blossoms and birdsong to your glass. Enjoy.

CHILLED WHITES FOR WARM DAYS 1 Babylonstoren Chenin Blanc (£14, 12.5%)

Tropical flavours of guava, pineapple and melon speak of summer holidays and exotic climes. This deliciously dry South African chenin blanc is worth every penny. Available via The Newt in Somerset, Wanderlust Wine, Novel Wines and The Savanna.

2 Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference pecorino (£7.75, 12%)

The grape, not the cheese, though they’re equally delicious, pecorino is a lesser-known Italian variety deployed here to glorious effect. Fresh and fruity with hints of apples and peach and a creamy finish. Available from Sainsbury’s.

3 La Val Orballo Albarino (From £17.50, 12.5%)

This delicious albariño from northwestern Spain boasts aromas of peach and honey, combined with a bright, fresh palate of apples and citrus fruits and a herby undertone. Absolutely delicious. Available from Loki Wines and Hennings Wine Merchants.

4 Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc (£11.99, 13%)

This glorious Kiwi sauvignon blanc features plenty of fresh tropical fruit, citrus flavours and zest on the nose and palate, and a dry, tart and full-bodied finish. Available from Waitrose and Waitrose Cellar.

5 Wakefield Clare Valley Riesling (£12.95, 12%)

The quintessentially German grape has flourished Down Under, even though it’s less widely planted than it once was. Still, this is a superb white, flush with fresh lime and blossom and a dryish finish. Available from Slurp.

6 Pasqua Passimento Bianco (£12.99, 13%)

Garganega doesn’t exactly trip off the tongue, even though it’s Italy’s sixth most widely planted grape variety, but it’s bold and fruity with intense flavours of peach and tropical fruit on the palate. Dry as a bone. Available from Majestic.