PAELLA VALENCIANA

In south-eastern Spain, in Valencia and Alicante, paella is the favourite Sunday lunch dish. During the summer, in the country and seaside restaurants which cater for the locals as well as for visitors, there is a brisk trade in paellas. There are countless versions – the only constant ingredients are rice and saffron; and a mixture of pork, chicken and shellfish is characteristic, although not invariable. Here is a simple version given me by a Spanish friend.

Enough for 4 people

1 small roasting chicken weighing about 700g (1½lb) or half a larger one 4tbsp olive oil Salt and freshly milled pepper 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1tsp paprika (or pimentón, the Spanish version) 1.2ltr (2pt) water 280g-350g (10oz-12oz) Valencia rice (Arborio or Patna rice could also be used) About 300ml (½pt) unshelled prawns or 115g (4oz) shelled prawns or 6 giant Mediterranean prawns 12 French beans (about 55g/2oz) ½tsp powdered saffron A handful of mussels, cleaned

Cut the chicken into about 8 pieces. In the pan (see tip at the bottom of the page) warm the olive oil and put in the pieces of chicken, seasoned with salt and pepper. Let them cook very gently for about 12 minutes, mainly on the skin side, as this should be fried to a nice golden colour. Set aside on a plate. In the same oil fry the tomatoes; stir in the paprika. Now add the water. When it comes to the boil, put back the pieces of chicken and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Add the rice, the prawns (I prefer them shelled) and the beans, topped and tailed and broken into 2.5cm (1in) lengths. Cook steadily for 15 minutes; sprinkle in the saffron and a little salt. Add the mussels. In another 5 to 7 minutes the rice should be cooked, but timing depends upon the quality of the rice, and the size and thickness of the pan. If the water has evaporated before the rice is cooked, add a little more. If there is still too much liquid by the time the rice is ready, increase the heat and cook fast until the rice is dry.

Finally, taste for seasoning, and serve the paella in the pan in which it has cooked (discard any mussels that haven’t opened). The rice should be a beautiful yellow colour, and although moist, each grain should be separate. And if it is necessary to stir, use a fork, not a spoon, which might break the rice.