TAGLIATELLE ALLA BOLOGNESE

Ragù is the true name of the Bolognese sauce which, in one form or another, has travelled round the world. In Bologna it is served mainly with lasagne verdi, but it can go with many other kinds of pasta. Fresh butter must be served as well, and plenty of grated Parmesan.

Enough for 6 generous helpings 85g (3oz) pancetta, ‘both fat and lean’ 15g (½oz) butter, plus extra for serving 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 small piece of celery, finely chopped 225g (8oz) lean minced beef 115g (4oz) chicken livers, chopped 3tbsp concentrated tomato purée 1 glass of white wine Salt and pepper Nutmeg 2 wine glasses of stock or water 500g-700g (1lb 2oz-1lb 8oz) fresh or dried tagliatelle (allow 85g-115g/ 3oz-4oz per person) Parmesan cheese, grated

Cut the ham into very small pieces and brown them gently in a small saucepan in the butter. Add the onion, carrot and celery. When they have browned, put in the minced beef, and then turn it over and over so that it all browns evenly.

Now add the chopped chicken livers, and after 2 or 3 minutes the tomato purée, and then the white wine. Season to taste with salt (having regard to the relative saltiness of the ham or bacon), pepper and a scraping of nutmeg, and add the stock or water. Cover the pan and simmer the sauce very gently for 30-40 minutes.

Cook the tagliatelle in a large pan of boiling salted water until al dente (very slightly resistant), then drain and put into a warm dish. When the Bolognese sauce is ready to be served, mix it with the hot pasta. Add a good piece of butter before serving with the grated Parmesan cheese.