CELERIAC HASSELBACK ‘HAM’

This is a delicious vegetable dish inspired by Swedish hasselback potatoes and the breadcrumbed ham (julskinka) you find on the Swedish Christmas table. Vegetarians get left out with celebratory feasts, so for me the ultimate goal with vegetarian dishes is to please both an omnivore and a vegetarian. You can serve the celeriac with coleslaw and cheese in a sandwich too.

Serves 4

500g (1lb 2oz) celeriac (about ½ of one) 2tbsp mustard seeds

5 peppercorns

3 juniper berries

750ml (1¼pt) beetroot juice

200ml (7fl oz) apple cider vinegar

40g (1½oz) honey

1tsp smoked paprika

½ an onion, peeled and quartered

1 bay leaf

60g (2¼oz) sea salt

Creamed spinach and roast potatoes, to serve

For the glaze

1tbsp sweet mustard (such as honey mustard, from supermarkets)

1tsp English mustard 1tsp maple syrup 30g (1oz) butter 3tbsp breadcrumbs

Wash and peel the celeriac. Place flat side down on a chopping board and lay a chopstick on either side, next to it. Cut vertical slices, 3mm apart, into the celeriac (the chopsticks will stop the knife slicing all the way through). Choose a pot that the celeriac will sit in tightly. Put the mustard seeds, peppercorns and juniper berries into the pot over a medium heat. Toast until the seeds start to pop, then add the other ingredients except for the celeriac. Bring to the boil while stirring, then simmer and add the celeriac. Simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, until the celeriac is tender, turning it so every side sits in the liquid and takes on a rich red colour. Leave to cool slightly.

Preheat the grill to medium-high. For the glaze, mix together both mustards and the maple syrup. Remove the celeriac and pat dry with kitchen roll. Place an ovenproof frying pan on a medium heat and add the butter. When it sizzles, put the celeriac flat side down into the pan to sear. Baste the top with butter. Take off the heat when the base is golden brown. Spread the glaze on top and sprinkle with breadcrumbs, then pour butter from the pan over it. Grill until golden. Serve with creamed spinach and roast potatoes.