ASSIETTE DE CRUDITÉS, MAMAN BLANC

Here is one of my favourite beginnings to a meal, one that holds so many fond memories. In his cherished garden, my father grew the vegetables. In her beloved kitchen, my mother transformed them. Every Sunday, after Mass, our dining table was adorned by this hors d’oeuvre of mostly raw vegetables with a delicious dressing.

Serves 4-6

● Prep 1 hour

● Cook 10 mins, plus 1½ hours for the beetroot

● 4 beetroot

● 4 medium eggs (preferably organic or free-range)

● 150g (5½oz) French beans

● 400g (14oz) celeriac

● 3tbsp lemon juice

● 1 large cucumber

● 4 big, fat, ripe tomatoes

● 2 large carrots

● 1 large lettuce, I like Ice Queen (Reine des Glaces)

For the dressing

● 4 banana shallots, finely chopped, washed in a sieve, and left on kitchen paper to dry

● 40g (1½oz) Dijon mustard

● 25ml (1fl oz) white wine vinegar

● 40ml (1½fl oz) warm water

● 150ml (5fl oz) groundnut oil (or vegetable or sunflower oil)

● Seasalt flakes and black pepper

Begin by washing and trimming the beetroot. Place them in a large pan and cover with water. Over a high heat, bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer and cook like this for 1½ hours (if you prefer, the beetroot can be steamed). Allow the beetroot to cool slightly before peeling and slicing.

While the beetroot are cooking, you can prepare the other components:

Eggs: boil for 10 minutes. Cool in cold water for 1 minute, then peel while still warm. Leave in a bowl of cold water and halve just before serving.

French beans: top and tail them. Blanch for 2 minutes in a saucepan of boiling, salted water. Drain and refresh the beans in a bowl of iced water. Drain and put them to one side.

Celeriac: peel and slice or coarsely grate into long strips, using a mandolin or spiraliser if you have one, and mix with 2tbsp lemon juice (to stop the celeriac turning brown).

Cucumber: peel and finely slice.

Tomatoes: chop into chunky pieces (roughly 3cm big).

Carrots: peel, grate and mix with 1tbsp lemon juice to stop the carrots turning brown.

Lettuce: pick and wash. To make the dressing, use a whisk to combine the ingredients, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.

Divide the vegetables into separate bowls and I recommend you mix them with the dressing like this: 2tbsp dressing with the beetroot, cucumber, tomatoes and carrots; 1tbsp dressing with the beans; 4tbsp with the celeriac.

To serve, toss the salad leaves with about 3tbsp of the dressing and place them on a large serving plate. Arrange the dressed vegetables on top and around the plate. Garnish with the boiled egg halves. Add a little extra dressing if necessary.