Autumn in glorious Umbria means one thing–truffle time!
WALKING through woodland, the sun’s rays shimmying between the trunks and our feet rustling through the leaves, we could be on a meandering stroll. But we’re not here to take in the gentle Umbrian scenery.
Setting the pace and leading the way is Guiseppe, a truffle hunter, and his dog Leda. We’re on the hunt for the prized wild tartufo bianco that has a short season and can’t be farmed.
Thanks to its elusive habit and the incredibly rich, umami flavour that it brings to any dish, white truffles are the most expensive food on the planet, regularly costing £2,000 a kilo.
The dog barks and rummages excitedly in the undergrowth; Guiseppe steps in with his knife. He’s struck gold — we can smell it! The truffle looks like a dirty stone.
By lunchtime, it will be on the menu at L’Antica Osteria in the tiny hilltop town of Montone, or for sale in the square at the annual Festa del Bosco, which takes place between October 30 and November 2.
We are staying in a converted medieval farm and church, Chiesa del Carmine, in a valley surrounded by olive groves, vines and its own truffle woods. At this time of year you can still eat alfresco — which we do — and drink the estate’s own Sangiovese.
After lunch of tagliatelle with white truffle, venison stew with shaved truffles and a slab of steak covered in truffle, washed down with local Umbrian wine, we head north to Citta di Castello.
The Tartufo Bianco Festival takes place here over the last three weekends in November, when the atmosphere in the evening is more like a carnival, with dancers, street performers and plenty of food and wine.
By day, the Truffle tents greet you with their intense, woody whiff and you can try truffle pate, oils, truffled honey and cheese: you can pick up a small black truffle for about €10 (£7) or oils and other treats from about €5 (£3 ).
For rather less pongy presents, there’s