Yes, YOU can wear red lipstick
WHEN Prince Harry’s onagainoffagain girlfriend Cressida Bonas, appeared at the Topshop fashion show last weekend, it was not her black lace dress that caught the eye as much as the striking shade of scarlet lipstick that transformed her look.
In the place of the barelythere natural shades she normally sports, was a slick of deep red adult sophistication.
When you think of red lipstick, you envisage sirens such as Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe. ‘It is the ultimate symbol of glamour and power for a woman,’ agrees Poppy King, founder of beauty brand Lipstick Queen.
Like most women, I used to think it was impossible to wear red lippy without making your teeth look yellow, your lips look thin and leaving smears of it on everything from your gnashes to your teacup.
But, as a convert, I believe that every woman can pull it off with aplomb. Here’s how . . .
THE RIGHT SHADE
ACCORDINg to celebrity makeup artist Justine Jenkins, who works with the likes of Fearne Cotton and Charlotte Rampling, finding the right shade is all about trial and error.
‘There are all sorts of “rules” about blondes looking better in bluebased or orangebased reds and darker skin being better with pinkbased reds. But it really is about going to a counter, asking for advice, and trying them out,’ she says.
Poppy suggests trying lipsticks on the pad on the inside of your index finger. ‘The skin tone here is closer to the colour of your lips, than the skin on the back of your hand’ she says.
And, adds Justine, never part with your hardearned cash until you’ve tried a product at home, and under different lights.
‘Don’t be scared to ask for samples,’ she says. ‘Even if they just apply it for you so you can see how it wears and how it looks in daylight.’
If you opt for an orangebased lipstick then, yes, they can tend to make discoloured teeth look yellower, as the yellow pigments in the lip colour will emphasise those in your teeth. However, Justine says that most reds have just about enough blue in them — which makes teeth look whiter — to counter this problem.
If you’re really worried, apply a lip gloss with a hint of blue over the top which, as with blue tones in lipstick, will make teeth appear whiter. Try Benefit California Kissin’ (£13.50, debenhams.com).
THIN LIPS
IT’S A commonly held belief that red lipstick can make thin lips look even thinner.
But Justine disagrees, and says: ‘A bright colour defines them, and can actually give them more prominence.’
She suggests applying a slick of red gloss to the very middle part of your pout after you’ve applied lipstick. ‘This creates a 3D effect and an illusion of fullness,’ she says.
NEED LIP LINER?
YOU can wear red lipstick at any age — although remember that most women get paler as they get older, so you may not be able to keep wearing the same shade you wore in your 20s.
As you get older, lipstick also has a tendency to feather and bleed into the lines around the mouth. A lip liner can help prevent this and provides a good base for your lipstick.
But forget the rules about lining the edges first, or using a colour slightly darker than your lips.
‘One of my favourite tricks for longlasting colour is to take a lip pencil that perfectly matches your lips’ natural colour,’ says makeup guru Bobbi Brown.
‘Line and completely fill in your lips to create a base that helps lock colour in place, then layer lipstick on top.’
You can also try this trick using a lip pencil the same colour as your lipstick, so if your lipstick wears off, you still have colour.
MATTE OR GLOSS?
MATTE lipsticks have been a trend over the past few years and new formulations mean they don’t dry lips like earlier incarnations did. And they’re a safer choice in many ways.
‘The glossier a lipstick is, the more likely it is to bleed, as it tends to contain more oils so it spreads more easily,’ explains Poppy. However, if you’re not ready for a fullon pillarbox pout, there are other textures that will help ease you into it, such as tinted lip balms and lip glosses.
‘Applying a lipstick with a brush will give a more sheer finish, so if you’re not confident, you can build up from there,’ suggests Poppy.
Justine is a big fan of the chunky lip crayons from brands such as Nars and Barry M: ‘They can be used to build up colour, and tend not to move once on.’
HOW TO APPLY IT
PREP: The better the condition of your lips, the better the result, so ensure a smooth base by exfoliating first. I swear by Fresh Sugar Lip Polish (£18, fresh.com), or make your own version by mixing sugar with a bit of Vaseline or your favourite lip balm. Work into the lips with your finger then buff off with a dry cloth. PRIME: Even if you don’t normally bother with a lip primer, it’s definitely worth it when wearing red lipstick. Fabulous Lip Prime (£16, lookfabulousforever.com) softens and moisturises lips while anchoring the lipstick, stopping any feathering or bleeding. LINE: Lip liner is optional, but for staying power, I tend to apply pencil in the same colour all over the lips, without worrying too much about the outline before applying lipstick, and then touch up the outer edges afterwards. APPLY: Use the bullet of the lipstick to cover all of your lip area, then smudge your lips together. BLOT: Separate a tissue, take a single ply and press it over your lips. Dust your lips, through the tissue, with translucent powder, then apply another coat of lipstick. Repeat until you have the depth of colour you want. FINISH: Put your index finger in your mouth then slowly pull it out between your closed lips. Any excess lipstick will end up on your finger, not your teeth.
Finally, just because you’ve upped the vamp rating on your lips, doesn’t mean you have to go all out with the eye makeup. As Cressida did, you should go for simple, naturallooking eyes.
‘You never want your features to compete with each other for attention,’ says Bobbi Brown. ‘A statement lip works best with neutral eye makeup.’
Poppy adds: ‘Do your lips first, then eyes. That way you’ll naturally apply less eye makeup than you usually would.’