Ski-in, ski-out ... from a huge pine cone!
People have been sniffy about Avoriaz — me, included. But as this purpose-built resort in the portes du Soleil prepares to celebrate its 50th anniversary, it’s time for a reappraisal. And it comes up trumps.
Many of the futuristic, wood-clad apartment buildings have weathered tastefully; a £9.4 million super-duper indoor waterpark (hot tubs, flumes, tropical plants) opened a couple of years ago; various smart restaurants and bars have improved the apres- ski beyond recognition.
When French architect Jacques labro came up with his master plan for Avoriaz in the early Sixties, the idea was to create the ultimate ski in, ski out resort.
He decreed that it should be possible to pop your skis on outside every single building at the start of the day and return there on skis in the evening. There would be no cars, no queues, no hassle.
You pitch up at a drop-off station at the top of the town — with an underground car park — and then jump on horse-drawn, bell-ringing sleighs that whisk you off to your apartment or hotel.
The hotel side of things is interesting. There is only one — Hotel des Dromonts — and it’s just been given a makeover by the Sibuet group. It is already attracting a glamorous crowd.
I’ve never seen a building like it. either Monsieur labro was on something, or he’s a genius.
Shaped audaciously like a pine cone, the rooms fan out so that all have uninterrupted views. The whole structure leans backwards and juts out at the same time. There is no roof as such — or rather the whole of the front is a roof, albeit covered in cedar shingles.
Inside, there’s barely a straight line. everything’s at a tilt or circular or at different levels.
Rooms (34 in total) feature the best of the Sixties with all the rock ’n’ roll luxury of 2015. It has two restaurants, both informal, but the top-notch one makes it a culinary destination in itself.
You can be here a week and hardly cover the same ground twice — but always at its centre is Avoriaz, looking down at satellite towns and villages such as Morzine, les Gets and Chatel on the French side, Champery, Morgins and Champoussin on the Swiss side.
We were a group of six, and for two days we acquired the services of lionel Morosato, who has been teaching and guiding here for more than 25 years. He took us through forests, into deep-powder bowls, along untrammelled ridges, through snowy valleys. Some of his shortcuts were a little eccentric, but he knew the mountain so well he could have done it blindfolded.
He didn’t skimp on lunch, either, insisting that we should stop one day at la Cremaillere in little lindarets, a family-run restaurant where booking is essential, especially at weekends.
lionel skis hard and fast. one evening, we celebrated surviving with no major scrapes at la Cabane, a terrific bar which only gets lively after midnight. The next day, near the famous Wall (a steep and bumpy black run down from les Crosets), he led us down a path to a small hut called la pisa, with a roaring wood burner and fondue bubbling on the stove.
Afterwards, if you ask nicely, the proprietor will rev up his Ski-doo and pull you on a long rope back to where you can ski down to a lift.
Avoriaz is purpose built, for sure — but unquestionably fit for purpose.
TRAVEL FACTS
ERNA Low ( ernalow.co.uk, 020 7584 2841) offers seven nights half-board at Hotel des Dromonts, including flights and transfers from £730 (pp/ two sharing). Visit avoriaz.com/en