CLASSIC BEAUTY
Paphos in Cyprus is warming up to become European Capital of Culture — join the party
Paphos, in the far west of Cyprus where the mountains meet the sea, takes over as joint European Capital of Culture (along with Denmark’s aarhus) in January. The ancient port, set around one of the most dazzling harbours in the Mediterranean and rich with ancient mythology, promises to be a happening place all year.
IT’S A HOLIDAY RESORT, ISN’T IT?
YEs, and it’s especially favoured by the British: hence the pubs and English breakfasts. But it’s also one of the great archaeological sites of the Eastern Mediterranean — and the legendary birthplace of aphrodite, the Goddess of Love.
HOW CAN I GET TO GRIPS WITH ITS HISTORY?
sTarT by walking west along the seaside promenade to paphos archaeological park. stroll through the expansive ruins of 4th-century BC Greco-roman Nea pafos and prepare to be mesmerised by the vast and intricate mosaics depicting scenes from Greek mythology.
Next stop, the so-called Tombs of The Kings — scores of excavated burial chambers set next to jagged rocks and crashing waves.
WHAT’S HAPPENING NEXT YEAR?
paphos is drawing on its classical heritage with a string of artistic and musical events throughout the year. Mythology will be the theme at street shows, music, dance and theatrical performances over the January 28-29 opening weekend.
another highlight is at the start of July when a ‘fire on the sea’ themed flotilla sails into the harbour while a light show illuminates paphos castle.
WHEN IS THE IDEAL TIME TO VISIT?
oNE reason paphos was chosen to be a culture capital is that Cyprus is a year-round destination. Winters are warm, mild and generally sunny with January temperatures nudging 20c.
summer — the peak beach season — is hot. But spring and autumn are gorgeous; usually cool enough for sightseeing but warm enough to swim.
WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
If You only have one full fish and seafood meze, make it dinner at The pelican ( cyprus-eating.com) on the harbour; it serves everything from cuttlefish to soft-shell crabs to freshly landed red mullet. Backdrop is the floodlit Byzantine castle guarding the port.
WHERE’S THE BEST PLACE TO STAY?
ThErE are two distinct parts to paphos: Kitima, the stately old town, which is uphill and inland, where there are a few elegant old hotels; and Kato paphos, the main tourist area scattered around the harbour.
The calmer, smarter end is east of the harbour, where there are some stylish five-star hotels.
pick of the bunch is the annabelle ( annabelle.com.cy), right on the waterfront with views over the sea, harbour and castle.
DECENT BEACHES?
ThE sea is swimmable around the harbour from pebbly inlets and pontoons within areas cordoned off from boat traffic.
for proper sand you need to hire a car. head east out of town to aphrodite Beach, the spot where legend has it the goddess first emerged from the waves.
or head westwards, where farflung Lara beach is an enchanting spot with clear water on the akamas peninsula.
WHAT’S NEARBY?
If you have a car, the world (well, island) is your oyster. polis, due north, is a laid-back little town near the Bath of aphrodite, a mysterious rock pool and waterfall where the goddess bathed and frolicked with her lovers.
swimming in the pool is forbidden these days, but it marks the start of several hiking trails through the wild, uninhabited akamas.
The coast here is flecked with pretty coves and sandy beaches where you can discover your own bit of bathing magic.
You could also motor into the foothills of the Troodos Mountains. once there, you’ll find monasteries (make time for the agios Neofytos hermitage), wineries and some rustic villages.
HOW DO I GET THERE?
BrITIsh airways ( ba.com, 0344 493 0787) flies daily from Gatwick to paphos. sunvil ( sunvil.co.uk, 020 8758 4758) offer three nights’ B&B at the annabelle from £744 with flights and transfers.
Try meet and greet parking at Gatwick wit hi love meet and greet. co.uk.
BEFORE I GO?
MORE information at Cyprus Tourism ( visitcyprus.org.cy, 020 7231 4181) and pafos2017.eu.