Will your face scrub give you WRINKLES?
Did you, like one in three women, use a face scrub this morning? if so, you might want to rethink your weekly beauty regime. Two American women claim that St. ives Apricot Scrub — one of the best- selling exfoliators in the uK and the u.S. — is ‘unfit to be sold or used as a facial scrub’. They argue that although manufacturer unilever states that it ‘deeply exfoliates to reveal smooth skin’ and is ‘dermatologist tested’, they allege that it can lead to ‘long-term skin damage’.
According to the pair, the crushed walnut shell contained in the scrub ‘has jagged edges that cause micro-tears in the skin. While this damage may not be immediately noticeable to the naked eye, it nonetheless leads to acne, infection and wrinkles’.
unilever doesn’t comment on ongoing court cases, but has said: ‘For over 30 years consum-ers have loved and trusted the St. ives brand to refresh and revitalise their skin. We stand by our dermatologist-tested formula.’
it might sound like classic litigious American over-reaction, but the documents the women are using to support their claim include quotes from dermatologists who liken use of similar products to ‘using sandpaper on your face’ and say that ‘ the inflammation and irritation triggered by scrubs can accelerate the ageing process.’
dr Mervyn Patterson, a uK cosmetic doctor at Woodford Medical, agrees. ‘i loathe manual scrubs and exfoliators with a passion,’ he says. ‘you can trigger a whole series of problems.
‘Even the physical act of exfoliation — with agents such as nut shell particles, apricot kernels and plastic micro beads — sends signals into the skin and switches on chronic inflammation.’ However, done properly, exfoliating can keep skin looking bright, fresh and feeling supple. So before you scrub exfolia-ting out of your skincare regime, here is our guide to doing it safely…
WHAT IS EXFOLIATION?
VEry simply it’s the process of removing old cells from the surface of the skin.
‘our skin cells are constantly exfoliating,’ says cosmetic derma-tologist dr Sam Bunting. ‘This cycle of natural removal of old cells to make way for new ones keeps the surface looking bright, supple and functioning as an effective barrier.’
But, those with older skin, or who have conditions such as acne, can find that skin cells clump together, creating dullness and blocked pores.
ARE SCRUBS SO BAD?
ACCordiNG to dr Bunting physi-cal exfoliants — from a flannel, to an electric cleansing brush, to a scrub can lead to damage and increased skin sensitivity if used too often.
‘i see the consequences — red-ness, sensitivity, breakouts — daily in my practice,’ she says.
dr Patterson agrees with her: ‘The top layer of your skin is responsible for protecting us from dangers such as pollutants, bacteria and uV light. Scrub at it too hard and you will remove this vital top layer.’
WHAT SHOULD YOU USE?
MECHANiCAlly scrubbing the skin may not get dermatologists’ approval, but there is another way — chemical exfoliation.
‘i prefer this method, which uses acids instead,’ says dr Bunting.
This means looking for products with glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid, which gently loosen surface cells.
These can come in the cleansers such as Mario Badescu’s Glycolic Foaming Cleanser (£14, beautybay. com), toners such as Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA liquid Exfoliant (from £8, paulaschoice. co.uk) and Epionce lytic Tx lotion (£ 54.50, epionce. co. uk), which contains salicylic and azelaic acid as well as anti-inflammatories, which is recommended by dr Patterson.
or you could opt for a mask. dr Bunting likes ren Glycolactic Mask (£ 32, cultbeauty. co. uk), which contains lactic and glycolic acids.
HOW OFTEN IS BEST?
ASSuMiNG you don’t have a bad reaction to a new chemical exfoliant, the frequency with which you should use it depends on factors including skin type and climate.
‘Those with thin, dry skin should probably exfoliate no more than once or twice a week, especially in winter,’ says dr Bunting.
Thicker, oilier skin is often more resilient and you may be able to exfoliate up to four times a week.
But be careful that you’re not doubling up on exfoliants. it’s all too easy to use a cleanser, toner and a mask that all contain them without realising. This can lead to irritation and soreness.
THEY LEFT MY SKIN RAW
CoMPANy director linsey Scott, 45, lives in Cheshire and has two sons, aged seven and ten. A bad reaction to an exfoliating scrub, that she had been using for a couple of months, left her skin red raw for nine months.
‘i used it before my parents’ golden wedding anniversary party. My face felt as if it was burning slightly. As the night went on, my face went bright pink. When i got home and looked in the mirror my skin was flaking off. it was horrible.
‘A few days later a friend asked if i’d had a chemical peel. My face was bright red, dry and puffy.
‘ My GP prescribed a steroid cream, which worked for a few days then stopped, so i went back. i was given another steroid cream and even a cream used on burns patients. After nine months i was resigned to the discomfort.
‘But then a friend recommended a brilliant organic range. After using Scratchy Balm (£9.95, lj-natural. com) my skin was back to normal within two days.
‘i’ve warned all my friends about facial scrubs and i will never use them again.’