THE NEW SIZE LOTTERY
Labelling clothes as small, medium and large may sound simpler than the old 6-18 sizes, but as our two models show, it’s more inaccurate than ever
LABELLING clothes ‘ small’ or ‘ large’ should be straightforward. The clue’s in the word, isn’t it? But how large is a ‘large’? And what defines a ‘small’?
According to the High Street, a ‘large’ can be anything from a size 12 to a 20. ‘Small’? Not the size 10 you’d expect: in fact, measurements vary from a petite size 8 to a 12, depending where you shop. For while we all know that numeric sizing can vary hugely between retailers, it may come as a surprise to learn that clothes labelled ‘small’ and ‘large’ have even greater discrepancies. A recent Mintel
report showed that almost half of women would like to see more consistent sizing, rising to well over 50 per cent in those over 45.
Interestingly, it also found there are sizing inconsistencies even within the same retailer.
For instance, a ‘small’ waist may be anything from 25- 27 in at Monsoon and 26 ¾-28 ½ in at H&M. ‘Large’ varies wildly, too, from a 29.9 in waist (Zara) to 33-34 ½ in (H&M). The result is that it’s harder than ever to know what will fit. Alison Rapsey, course director for fashion business and promotion at Birmingham City University, says the concept of ‘large’ and ‘small’ is ‘completely subjective’.
‘As we’ve changed in shape, so the inconsistencies between sizing in different shops have increased,’ she says. ‘After World War II, there was an attempt at conformity, but the average woman has changed enormously — from a size 12 with a 28 in waist and 34B bra size in the Fifties, to the current average of a size 16 with a 34 in waist and 36DD bust. Shops can’t keep up.’
This means the simplest way for retailers to do sizing is according to their target market.
‘Stores design for their ideal customer,’ says industry expert Jenna Seale Barnes, who has worked for High Street retailers and launched her Manchesterbased clothing label in 2003.
‘Rather than trying to make clothes for all women, they create ranges for their demographic. That’s why “small” and “large” sizes have to vary so much.’
To further confuse the issue, each of these labels may cover two sizes — so a small may be sizes 8 to 10 and a large sizes 12 to 14.
Yet, to the average, size 16 shopper, the fact that many of the clothes that don’t fit her are deemed ‘large’ feels insulting.
Continental stores, such as Zara and Mango, are especially culpable, though their clothes are likely cut for a smaller, European build. And the reason why ‘small’ is often so very small? Experts suggest this might be, in part, to lure in younger shoppers.
‘ Many retailers have even introduced petite sizes to get the teens and “tweens” to shop there,’ says Tamara Sender, fashion analyst at Mintel.
‘Looking at the population, the number of ten to 14-year- olds is set to grow at the fastest rate over the next five years, while the 16 to 24s are declining.’