This Cumbrian bolthole’s all the Raj
TO BE reminded of India on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District is surprising. But that’s the case during a stay in The Malabar near Sedbergh, which, as it happens, has just been crowned Cumbria’s Bed & Breakfast of the Year.
Another accolade for the Lake District, which was awarded Unesco World Heritage status this week.
The owners, Graham and Fiona Lappin, lived in Mumbai for five years and returned with enviable baggage from their travels.
Our room, the Ladbroke, named after a bungalow on the Munnar tea plantation has a planter’s chair, ornate chest and gorgeous textiles from Good Earth, a luxury Indian furnishing company.
Bed Tea, as it’s called, is brought to the door in the morning on the back of an elephant (no, not a real one). Outside in the hallway is the back of a tuk tuk, the words ‘horn please!’ emblazoned across it.
Breakfast is greedily gorgeous — you can combine a Cumbrian fry-up (plus homemade beans) with a spiced lassi. Walks are easily accessible — you’ll need them.
The couple will even drive you to the start of a trail head. We are deposited below a waterfall leading up to Cautley Spout. Near the top, we meet a group of ramblers led by a chap in his 80s. They’re made of stern stuff around here.
In Sedbergh, we watch runners finishing a Fell run and marvel that they can sprint the steep slope we stomped. It’s enough to make you hungry and, happily, Sedbergh is well-served. The Three Hares Café on the High Street is a homely spot for lunch and the Dalesman pub is the sort of hearty place to serve calamari and chunky chips for a starter and jugs of gravy as a side. Again, you’ll need the walks.
In the evening sun, we wander down to the grand old railway viaduct, which you pass on the Dales Way. Then back to the hotel for a gin and tonic in The Malabar’s sitting room.
The Lappins say they feel lucky to live in such a special place. We feel lucky to stay with them.
TRAVEL FACTS
Rooms at The Malabar ( themalabar.co.uk, 01539 620200) from £160 a night, including breakfast and afternoon tea on arrival.