PERU’S PLUSH HIGH LINE
The luxury train that’s a (literally) breathtaking way to see this thrilling country
P Eru’S Andean plateau is a place of stark majesty, where golden plains are backed by snow- capped peaks, where skittish vicuna camelids graze, and precipitous Inca farming terraces stretch into the distant hills.
It is also the dramatic backdrop for a journey on South America’s first luxury sleeper train, 16 liveried carriages that rattle through the Altiplano — or high Plains — at a leisurely 20 mph.
The Belmond Andean Explorer launched in May and rumbles between the former Inca capital Cusco and the colonial city of Arequipa, calling at Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.
It passes some of Peru’s most breathtaking sights — as the locomotive climbs to a heady 14,000 ft.
An onboard nurse, and oxygen tanks in each of the 25 cabins, are as much a part of the Belmond offering as pisco sours — the zesty cocktail made with Peru’s national drink, pisco (a kind of brandy) — afternoon tea and three-course meals. This is high altitude in high style.
My journey begins after a day roaming Peru’s second city Arequipa. At nightfall, I make my way to the tiny restored train station to be greeted by a band, a glass of bubbly and the genial train manager, Javier.
It’s a two-night train journey to Cusco, a trip that is also offered in reverse, along with a one-night option between Lake Titicaca and the former Inca capital. The other seven nights are spent in well located Belmond hotels. The Andean Explorer originally chugged through the Australian coast as the Great South Pacific Express. Belmond shipped the carriages to Peru where they were given a makeover, keeping original touches such as the wooden parquet floors in the bathrooms and the brass luggage racks.
The train is light and bright, decorated in creamy hues, with Peruvian touches in the form of bright textiles and historic photographs of Machu Picchu and Cusco.
My double cabin has ivory wood panelling, soft grey throws and crisp white sheets.
ThErE are two restaurant cars, an elegant bar — with baby grand piano — and, from next year, there will be a spa carriage, so you can be pampered and pummelled as you roll along.
My favourite spot is the observation carriage at the back of the train. half of it is open so you can snap away at the scenery. The other half is the train’s second bar.
After a fitful first night’s sleep