AN INSPECTOR CALLS

His mission: To test hotel hospitality to the limit

WE’VE hardly closed the boot of the car before my wife is clicking away on her camera phone and swooning. She’s looking at a Georgian house from 1796 called Middleton Lodge, designed by John Carr.

It’s a glorious evening. Guests are arriving for a wedding party. There’s the scent of jasmine. Things can only go downhill from here, I tell myself.

On the contrary. When shown to the Tack Room, our bedroom in the lovingly restored stable block, I’m swooning, too.

We’re minutes away from the A1 (M) near Scotch Corner, but it feels like Provence with the pale Yorkshire stone offset by lavender and the huge arched doors leading into the restaurant and bar. Nothing grates. The staff are cheerful; the food inventive; the wines carefully chosen and fairly priced.

All this and more is the work of James and Rebecca Allison, a young couple with small children and big ideas. James grew up in the main house and couldn’t abide the idea of his parents selling up, so he bought it from them and, with the help of his wife (an architect), set about transforming it into one of the loveliest hotels in the country.

There are huge grounds, woodland walks, a shop and most of the rooms have outside areas. The Tack Room has its own wood-burning stove and one of the biggest bathrooms I’ve ever seen. We linger in the morning, finding all kinds of excuses not to leave, including asking for a tour on the pretext that we might want to hire the whole thing (16 rooms). Then we spot the Allison family. He is something of an explorer. She’s aristocratic-looking. The children? They’re gorgeous, obviously. Middleton Lodge Kneeton Lane, Middleton Tyas, Richmond North Yorkshire DL10 6NJ 01325 377977 middletonlodge.co.uk Doubles from £140 B&B